The Combe de Savoie vineyards with Mont Blanc views

The steep south-facing slopes of the Combe de Savoie produce France's most serious alpine reds. Mondeuse here achieves remarkable depth, with peppery wild berry flavors. The nearly-extinct Persan grape is being revived by passionate vignerons on these historic terraces.

What to do there

4 things to do

1. 1 Taste Syrah's Mother Wine · Price: moderate

   Find a producer in the Combe de Savoie making Mondeuse (the red version - Mondeuse Noire, not the white Mondeuse Blanche). DNA studies proved Mondeuse is Syrah's parent grape - every Hermitage, every Côte-Rôtie owes its existence to these mountain vines. The peppery, wild berry character you taste is the ancestral template. Ask your host to explain the genetic connection. Then ask why Mondeuse never became famous while its child conquered the world. Budget €15-25 for a serious tasting.

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2. 2 Hunt for Persan - Less Than 10 Hectares Exist Wine · Price: moderate · Optional

   Ask specifically for Persan - there are fewer than 10 hectares planted worldwide, almost all here in the Combe de Savoie. This grape nearly went extinct in the 20th century. Passionate vignerons are reviving it vine by vine. The wine is dark, tannic, powerful - nothing like delicate Jacquère. If the producer doesn't have Persan, ask who in the valley does. This may require visiting multiple domaines. That's the point - you're hunting a ghost grape.

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3. 3 Photograph the Mont Blanc Backdrop at Dawn Adventure · Free · Optional

   Visit in the morning if possible - the light on the steep south-facing vineyards with Mont Blanc in the distance is spectacular. The Combe de Savoie is a natural corridor between the Chartreuse and Bauges massifs. The vineyards climb impossibly steep slopes that were terraced by hand over centuries. Find a viewpoint where vines and peaks align. This is one of France's most photogenic wine landscapes, yet almost no tourists come here.

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4. 4 Call Ahead for the Winemaker Adventure · Free

   Local producers welcome walk-ins, but calling ahead ensures the winemaker is present - not just family members minding the shop. Many speak limited English, so prepare basic French wine vocabulary: 'Je cherche du Mondeuse' (I'm looking for Mondeuse), 'Avez-vous du Persan?' (Do you have Persan?). The effort pays off - you'll taste wines that never leave the valley, from people whose families have farmed here for generations.

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Insider tips

• The Persan grape (nearly extinct, now reviving) is worth seeking out

• Morning light on the vineyards with Mont Blanc backdrop is spectacular for photography

• Local producers welcome walk-ins but calling ahead ensures the winemaker is present