Lagrein tasting at historic estate in Santa Maddalena

What to do there

3 things to do

1. 1

   Walk the Oldest DOC Vineyards in Italy for Free

   adventure Free

   The St. Oswald Promenade winds up from Bolzano into the Santa Maddalena vineyards, an amphitheater of porphyry terraces that gave Italy its very first wine protection law.

   In 1923, this hillside became the site of Italy's FIRST wine protection consortium. The growers of Santa Maddalena banded together a full year before Chianti bothered to do the same. Three years after the region was forcibly transferred from Austria to Italy, German-speaking winegrowers invented the Italian wine protection system. Start at the Lungotalvera Promenade (Talvera Meadows) on the north edge of Bolzano city center, 15 minutes walk from the main train station. The church at the top (frescoed 1300-1380) sits in the middle of the vines, a panoramic perch at 375m with Bolzano spread below and the Dolomites stacked on the horizon. The porphyry soil underfoot is volcanic rock that soaks up heat during the day and releases it at night. 6.1 km round trip, mostly paved path, gentle uphill.

   BACKUP: Take the cable car from Via Renon in central Bolzano up to Soprabolzano, then walk down through the vineyards toward Santa Maddalena (mostly downhill).

   Log Memory
2. 2

   Taste Lagrein at the Foot of the Pig Castle Ruins

   wine Price: moderate

   Tenuta Kornell has 700 years of winemaking history, sits at the ruins of a medieval castle whose defenders threw a pig off the walls to bluff besiegers, and makes the Lagrein Greif: dark cherry, violets, and ancient volcanic rock in a glass.

   Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV tasted Lagrein in 1370 and immediately banned his troops from drinking it. It was too good for soldiers. He reserved it exclusively for nobility and the Church. At Tenuta Kornell, Via Cosma e Damiano 6, 39018 Settequerce (8 km northwest of Bolzano), the Lagrein Greif comes from porphyry-weathered soil at 270m: deep purple-red with violet reflections, then Amarena cherry, blackberry, licorice, dark chocolate. The castle ruin above was besieged in 1420, and the defenders threw their one fat pig over the walls onto the besiegers to convince the castle had food to spare. The siege collapsed. That castle gave this wine its name: Greif. Book the Friday guided tour at EUR 25/person (call +39 0471 917507), or walk-in cellar sales Mon-Fri 8am-12pm and 1:30-5pm.

   BACKUP: If you miss the Friday tour, come for walk-in cellar sales and ask at the shop. Then hike up the trail behind the estate to the Greifenstein ruins for the view back over the vineyards.

   Log Memory
3. 3

   Find the Swiss Monks Who Rescued Lagrein from Extinction

   history Price: low

   In 1845, Benedictine monks expelled from Switzerland arrived in Bolzano and inherited Lagrein vineyards nobody else wanted. Today 80% of what they make is Lagrein, and their flagship Riserva wins Italy's highest wine honor.

   In 1845, Benedictine monks from Muri abbey (founded 1027, Swiss canton of Aargau) were expelled from Switzerland and given the dissolved Augustinian convent in Gries with 35 hectares of Lagrein vineyards. They began selling wine in barrels over the Brenner Pass into Germany, keeping the grape alive while everyone else was chasing higher-yielding varieties. At Klosterkellerei Muri-Gries, Piazza Gries 21, Bolzano, sit in the vinotheque surrounded by centuries-old stone walls and taste the wine that monks saved from oblivion. Today winemaker Christian Werth makes four expressions including the flagship Riserva Abtei Muri (16 months barrique, Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri winner). Walk into the vinotheque at the monastery entrance, open daily 9am-7pm. Ask specifically for the Lagrein Kretzer rose if available - it is almost never exported.

   BACKUP: If the vinotheque is closed, walk to Banco 11 Enoteca at Piazza delle Erbe 11 in central Bolzano. Owner Birgitta stocks the full Alto Adige Lagrein range and will pour a glass that reframes Italian red wine entirely.

   Log Memory

Insider Tips

• Book ahead at Tenuta Kornell for sunset terrace tasting overlooking Bolzano

• The Schiava (Vernatsch) here is underrated - ask for St. Magdalener Classico

• Combine with the Santa Maddalena wine trail (Weinlehrpfad) for vineyard context