Middle Rhine Gorge

What to do there

5 things to do

1. 1

   Touch Rome's Last Wall at Boppard

   history Free

   The best-preserved Roman fortress walls in Germany — still standing 9 metres tall, 1,700 years old, free to approach any hour.

   WHERE: Kirchgasse / corner of Angertstrasse, central Boppard (GPS: 50.2313, 7.5886). Freely accessible at all times — no gate, no ticket, no hours. The exposed wall section is integrated into the town centre itself.

   WHAT: In the mid-4th century CE, Rome built BODOBRICA here — a fortress 308 × 154 metres with walls 9 metres high and 20 horseshoe-shaped towers. This was not a frontier outpost; this was Rome saying the Rhine gorge will not fall. A 55-metre section of that original wall still stands at its original height today, making it the best-preserved Roman fortress wall in all of Germany. Touch the stone. It has been here since approximately 350 AD. The word Boppard itself is a corruption of Bodobrica — you are standing inside the name. While you're here: the Rhine 50 metres in front of you was the actual border of the Roman Empire. On the far bank? Barbarian Germania. The burgi watchtowers (Rome's equivalent of CCTV surveillance) stood every few hundred metres along this bank, watching for Germanic raiders attempting the crossing. This gorge was as militarized as any Cold War border.

   HOW: Walk to Kirchgasse from the Boppard train station (10 minutes on foot). The walls are simply there, embedded in the urban fabric. Morning light hits the stone best. Plan 20–30 minutes. Combine with the Bopparder Hamm vineyard walk along the Rhine bend (15 minutes further on foot) — this is where Riesling has grown since the Romans planted the same slopes.

   BACKUP: If you're short on time in Boppard, the wall is visible even from a passing car on Kirchgasse. But stop — the scale only registers when you're standing next to it.

   Log Memory
2. 2

   Drink the Wine That Almost Died — at Its Source

   wine Price: moderate

   Weingut Toni Jost's Bacharacher Hahn: 60% slope, pure blue slate, 7 generations, nearly abandoned in the 1980s. The wine that should not exist.

   WHERE: Weingut Toni Jost – Hahnenhof, Oberstraße 14, 55422 Bacharach (GPS: 50.0581, 7.7684). Tasting room open Thursday–Saturday 11:00–17:00, April through September. Call ahead to verify: +49 6743 1216.

   WHAT: The vineyard that almost ceased to exist. In the 1980s, winemakers across the Mittelrhein were ripping out their vines. The EU vine-pullout scheme paid farmers across Europe to abandon impossibly steep slopes — and many took the money. The Bacharacher Hahn vineyard, a 60% gradient slope of pure blue clay slate 1km downstream from here, was one of the casualties that almost never came back. Cecilia Jost — seventh generation — is the reason it exists today. When she pours you the Kabinett from Bacharacher Hahn, you are drinking from the same hill where Romans grew wine for their Rhine frontier soldiers. The blue clay slate is the secret: it absorbs heat during the day and releases it at night, coddling the grapes through cold Rhenish autumn. The result is Riesling with a laser-like acidity and minerality that tastes of the rock itself — not fruit, not wood, but that specific Devonian slate that was being folded under geological pressure when dinosaurs roamed.

   HOW: Ask for the Bacharacher Hahn Kabinett (around €15–19) to start. If budget allows, step up to the Grosses Gewächs from the same vineyard (€50+). Ask Cecilia or the staff: 'Was this vineyard ever threatened?' The story of how close this wine came to disappearing is part of what you're tasting. Tasting is walk-in during open hours; no appointment needed for standard tasting.

   BACKUP: If Toni Jost is closed, Weingut Ratzenberger is another respected Bacharach producer with tasting facilities. Alternatively, pick up a bottle at one of Bacharach's wine shops (several on Oberstraße) and drink it on the Rhine promenade with the vineyard in view.

   Log Memory
3. 3

   Hear What the Loreley Really Was

   history Free

   132 metres above the narrowest Rhine section. The siren is 200 years old. The shipwrecks are ancient.

   WHERE: Loreley viewpoint plateau, reached from Sankt Goarshausen (GPS: 50.1393, 7.7287). Visitor centre at Auf der Loreley 7, 56348 Bornich; open daily 10am–5pm (low season 11am–4pm). Two access options: (1) Drive the L338 from Sankt Goarshausen — paid parking at top. (2) Hike up via the Rheinsteig trail from Sankt Goarshausen station — 45–60 minutes, follows the river before climbing through vineyards.

   WHAT: Here is what nobody tells you about the Loreley: the beautiful blonde siren who combs her golden hair and lures sailors to their death — she is a fiction invented in 1824 by Heinrich Heine in a poem. Before that, in 1801, Clemens Brentano invented a slightly different version. The mythological siren is exactly 200 years old. But the hazard is ancient. This 132-metre cliff creates the narrowest point of the Rhine — the current accelerates, the rock echoes and confuses sound, and the underwater topography creates eddies that have been killing boats since the Celts first tried to navigate the river. Roman supply barges bringing grain and wine to the Rhine frontier troops had to navigate this exact chokepoint. Every empire that used the Rhine as a highway — Roman, Frankish, Holy Roman — feared the Loreley not because of a beautiful woman but because of physics and geology. When you stand on the viewpoint 132 metres above the river, watch the boats slow down and the pilots grip the wheel. The danger is real. The siren is not.

   HOW: Cross from St. Goar to Sankt Goarshausen by ferry (Mon–Fri 5:30am–9pm, Sat 6:20am–9pm, Sun 7:20am–9pm; €2–3, 5-minute crossing). Then either hike or take a taxi/car to the top. The view at golden hour — when the sun lights the opposite bank and the river turns copper — is the reward. Combine with a glass of local Riesling at the visitor centre café.

   BACKUP: The Loreley rock is also visible from the river — the KD Rhine cruise passes directly beneath it (see Step 4). If hiking to the top is impractical, the view from the passing boat with the story in mind still delivers the reveal.

   Log Memory
4. 4

   Count 40 Castles from a Roman Trade Route

   adventure Price: low

   The KD Rhine cruise through the gorge — one castle every 1.5km, every one of them a medieval toll extortion station on the wine trade.

   WHERE: Board KD (Köln-Düsseldorfer) cruise in Bingen, Rüdesheim, or Bacharach heading toward Koblenz (or reverse). Check k-d.com for current schedules. SS Goethe (historic vessel) runs the full Koblenz–Rüdesheim route daily except Monday in high season.

   WHAT: Between Bingen and Koblenz — 67 kilometres — there are more than 40 medieval castles. That works out to roughly one castle every 1.5 kilometres. UNESCO calls it the greatest density of castles in the world for this stretch. Why are there so many? Each was a medieval toll station. Every lord with a promontory and a small army built a castle to stop passing wine merchants and charge passage fees. Burg Pfalzgrafenstein — built in 1326 on an island in the middle of the river — ran an actual chain across the Rhine so no ship could pass without paying. The castle-building competition in the Middle Ages was not about military defence; it was about who could extract the most money from the Rhine wine trade. You are floating through the most successful organized crime corridor in medieval Europe. Castles to spot: Burg Gutenfels, Pfalzgrafenstein (on the island), Loreley rock, Burg Katz, Burg Maus, Burg Rheinfels, and Marksburg (the only Rhine castle never destroyed).

   HOW: One-way ticket Rüdesheim to St. Goar approximately €27; to Boppard approximately €39; full route to Koblenz approximately €59. Arrive by train and show your rail ticket for up to 20% discount. The cruise is slow — Koblenz to Rüdesheim takes 6+ hours upstream, 4 hours downstream. Buy a glass of local Riesling at the onboard bar and position yourself on the upper deck, starboard side heading downstream (right bank) for the best castle views through the core gorge. The Loreley section, approximately 2 hours from Rüdesheim, is the climax.

   BACKUP: If a full cruise is too long, take the short ferry between St. Goar and St. Goarshausen to experience the river at the Loreley section specifically.

   Log Memory
5. 5

   Drink Riesling on the Cellar Roof at Weingart

   Optional

   wine Price: low

   Rooftop picnic area above the wine cellar in Spay: open to anyone, Rhine and vineyards in every direction, wine by the glass.

   WHERE: Weingut Florian Weingart, Peterspay 1, 56322 Spay (navigate via Mainzer Str. 31). GPS approx. 50.2600, 7.6400 — south of Boppard on the west bank. Hours: Mon–Fri 14:00–18:30, Sat 11:00–18:30.

   WHAT: Florian and Ulrike Weingart made a deliberate choice: small, family-owned, never compromise. No appointment required — anyone can walk up, including hikers with backpacks. The rooftop of their cellar is a publicly accessible picnic area overlooking their vineyards and the Rhine. Buy wine and glasses during opening hours; bring your own food or just sit and drink. The Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) from these steep slate slopes is one of the region's hidden revelations — most people expect only white wine from the Mittelrhein, but the Weingart Spätburgunder shows what happens when slate and cool nights give Pinot Noir real structure. Florian has been known to spontaneously invite curious visitors for a cellar tour. Don't ask — just be genuinely curious about the wine. The invitation will find you.

   HOW: Wine by the glass from approximately €4–8; bottle prices vary. No admission. No reservation. If arriving on foot or by bike (Rhine Cycle Path passes nearby), this is the perfect mid-gorge stop. Combine with Boppard Roman fort (15 minutes south by car). The rooftop works year-round in good weather.

   BACKUP: If Weingart is closed, look for hand-painted Straußwirtschaft signs in gorge villages advertising seasonal wine taverns — typically open during harvest September–October, wine direct from the producer, no tourists, no menus.

   Log Memory