Three of the world's best-preserved Greek temples stand in the fields south of
Naples. The Temple of Hera II (so-called Temple of Neptune) rivals the Parthenon in
preservation. Founded as Poseidonia around 600 BC, this was among the richest Greek
colonies. UNESCO World Heritage site.
What to do there
3 things to do
The Parthenon gets all the fame. The Temple of Hera II at Paestum is better preserved.
The Temple of Hera II (called the 'Temple of Neptune' by 18th-century travelers who named it wrong) was built around 460 BC - same era as the Parthenon. The Parthenon has been blown up, stripped, reconstructed, and debated for centuries. The Temple of Hera II has 34 columns still standing, most of the entablature intact, and has never required major reconstruction. At Paestum Archaeological Site (Via Magna Graecia 919, open Apr-Aug 8:30am-7:30pm, last ticket 6:50pm, €15 adult covering temples + museum + Velia, valid 3 days), stand at the southern end and count the columns along the long side (you'll count 14). Then count the short side (6). This 6x14 Doric colonnade formula was the standard of Classical Greek temple design. The city was named Poseidonia after Poseidon, settled by colonists from Sybaris - the same pleasure-seeking city Croton destroyed in 510 BC. The golden-ochre limestone changes color as the sun moves - arrive early morning or late afternoon for the most dramatic light.
Backup:The site has three temples in total - if time is limited, prioritize Hera II (center) and Hera I (south, called 'the Basilica'). Both are 6th-5th century BC. The Temple of Athena (north) is slightly smaller but equally ancient.
The people who built these temples were refugees from the city Croton destroyed.
Paestum was founded around 600 BC as 'Poseidonia' by settlers from Sybaris - the same city you visited (or will visit) to the north. When Croton destroyed Sybaris in 510 BC, some Sybarite survivors fled south and eventually resettled here. Then the Romans took over in 273 BC and renamed it Paestum. Then the Lucanians took it. Then the Romans again. Every conqueror kept the temples standing - even medieval locals building farmhouses used the surrounding land but never dismantled the columns. Find the site's orientation panels near the main entrance and the 'founding of Poseidonia' panel noting the date (600 BC) and the parent city (Sybaris). The connection between the city that embodied excess and the temples that survive them both is the central irony of this site.
Backup:The site's UNESCO World Heritage designation panel (1998) lists all periods of occupation. The layering of Greek, Lucanian, and Roman occupation is visible in the city walls - look for sections where the stonework style changes.
These stones were built to catch light. They've been doing it for 2,500 years.
The limestone at Paestum is travertine from local quarries - a warm golden-cream stone that shifts dramatically under changing light. Early morning it reads white. Noon it reads yellow-grey. Late afternoon it glows amber. The Greek builders knew this. They built temples oriented to catch specific light at specific times for specific rituals. Position yourself to the west of the Temple of Hera II with the sun behind you about 90 minutes before closing (site closes at 7:30pm Apr-Aug, allowing late light visits). Watch the columns change color over 30 minutes. Bring the wine you bought in Cirò or any bottle from the site shop - there are outdoor areas near the exit where this is entirely appropriate.
Backup:Early morning (8:30am opening) provides equally dramatic light from the east. The site is quietest at opening and the last 45 minutes before closing.
