Aristotle founded a school here before being invited to tutor Alexander.
The Temple of Athena overlooks Lesbos across the strait. The dramatic setting - acropolis
above a small harbor - preserves Greek colonial atmosphere. Theophrastus likely visited
his teacher here.
What to do there
3 things to do
Before tutoring Alexander the Great, Aristotle spent 3 years HERE - working on Politics and studying wine's role in the good life
In 348 BCE, Aristotle arrived in Assos - invited by Hermias, the philosopher-king who had studied under Plato. For 3 years, Aristotle FOUNDED AN ACADEMY here, married Hermias's niece Pythia, made his revolutionary observations on zoology and biology, and likely began writing 'Politics' - the foundational text of Western political philosophy. Then in 341 BCE, the Persians arrived, tortured Hermias to death, and Aristotle fled to Macedonia, where he became the tutor of a 13-year-old boy named Alexander. The boy we now call Alexander the Great was taught by a man who spent his formative years on THIS hillside, above THIS harbor, looking across at Lesbos. Take the cable car up to Assos Ancient City (Behramkale, Canakkale province, €10-15) and find the remains of Aristotle's academy near the Athena Temple. Stand at the highest point of the acropolis. Across the water you can see Lesbos - Aristotle's student Theophrastus was FROM Lesbos.
Backup:The Athena Temple (530 BC) is the oldest Doric temple in Anatolia and the ONLY Doric sacred building in this form anywhere in ancient Asia Minor.
The book begun here contains philosophy of wine's role in civilized life
Aristotle's 'Politics' - likely begun at Assos - contains passages on wine's role in the polis: how wine service at symposia organized social hierarchies, how moderation defined the educated citizen versus the barbarian, how viticulture anchored communities to specific land. These are not abstract observations. He was watching Greek colonists on THIS coast growing vines on THIS soil, trading wine across the SAME strait you are looking at. His philosophy of wine was empirical - based on what he saw from this hillside. From the acropolis viewpoint, looking south toward the harbor and west toward Lesbos, read this sentence: 'We should behave toward a friend as we would wish a friend to behave toward us' (Aristotle, Politics). Then ask a guide or look up: what does Aristotle say about wine in 'Politics'? The answer connects directly to the wine culture you've been experiencing across the Aegean.
Backup:The small harbor village of Behramkale below the acropolis has stone-house hotels and restaurants serving Aegean olive oil and fresh fish.
The harbor below Assos is exactly as it was when Aristotle fled
When the Persians captured and tortured Hermias (341 BCE), Aristotle had ONE route of escape: the harbor below Assos. He took a boat to Mytilene on Lesbos, then eventually to Macedonia. The same harbor you are looking at. Small, sheltered by a natural promontory, exactly as it was in 341 BCE. The harbor has been used continuously since the 7th century BC when Methymnians from Lesbos first settled here. Walk down from the acropolis to the ancient harbor of Assos (approximately 300m descent on a footpath) on the ancient road - stone-paved sections are visible. At the waterfront, look north along the coast toward where Aristotle would have sailed. Ask yourself: if this was the last thing he saw of Asia, what did he take with him? He took the notes that became 'Politics' and the observations that became biology.
Backup:The cafe at the harbor serves Turkish tea and cold drinks. Sit at the waterfront for 30 minutes. This harbor has been inhabited and active for 2,700 years without interruption.
