Hemingway's Civil War Wine Trail

Walk in the footsteps of one of the 20th century's greatest writers while drinking in bars unchanged since he dodged fascist bullets here. From Hotel Florida (now El Corte Inglés) to La Venencia's no-photos sherry bar to Cervecería Alemana where his designated table still exists with his photo above it.

What to do there

4 things to do

1. 1 Stand Where the Hotel Florida Stood History · Free

   Stand where Hemingway lived during the Civil War, writing dispatches while bombs fell around the Hotel Florida. His suite at this site (now El Corte Inglés, Plaza del Callao) was a salon for writers, artists, and combatants — Martha Gellhorn, his future wife, stayed with him here during the siege. Take Metro to Callao (L3/L5) and look for the plaque marking this literary battleground.

   Backup: Hotel Gran Vía also has a Hemingway plaque with similar history.

   Log Memory
2. 2 Enter La Venencia Under the Rules Wine · Price: low

   Follow the sacred rules at this Civil War refuge (Calle de Echegaray, 7, Huertas): NO photographs to protect Republican patrons from fascists, NO tipping due to socialist principles, NO spitting on the floor. Order sherry poured directly from the barrel — the traditional way since 1922. Metro to Sevilla (L2), open evenings, fino/manzanilla/amontillado €3-4.

   Backup: If La Venencia is packed, come back later - it's worth the wait.

   Log Memory
3. 3 Find Hemingway's Table History · Price: low

   Locate Hemingway's designated table beside the entrance at Cervecería Alemana (Plaza de Santa Ana) — his photo still hangs above it. He declared this the 'best beer in Spain' in Life Magazine, and the bar remains unchanged since his Civil War reporting days. Ask staff 'Dónde se sentaba Hemingway?' and order a caña (€3) at his exact spot.

   Backup: Any seat in this unchanged bar captures the atmosphere.

   Log Memory
4. 4 Dine at the World's Oldest Restaurant Adventure · Price: high · Optional

   Eat at the world's oldest working restaurant (Guinness certified since 1725) where Hemingway was close friends with owner Emilio González. He mentions Sobrino de Botín (Calle de Cuchilleros, 17) in 'Death in the Afternoon' — reserve at botin.es (€50-70/person) and order his signature dish: roast suckling pig with wine.

   Backup: The front bar serves cheaper tapas if the restaurant is full.

   Log Memory