Tour · Rioja Alavesa
Laguardia: 300 Cellars Beneath Medieval Walls
Underground History
Every house has a cellar. Every cellar has 1000 years of stories. Descend 7 meters beneath a 17th-century palace where Samaniego the fabulist was born - in tunnels that once held war plans against Castilians.
What to do there
4 things to do
- Log Memory
Bronze bust of Félix María de Samaniego (1745-1801), the fabulist, sits quietly in an iron trellis kiosk at El Collado walkway (northern corner). The inscription reads: "The town of Laguardia, to its enlightened son." He wrote fables about foxes and grapes — and was BORN here. Find this bust BEFORE descending to the cellars, read the inscription, then realize: you are about to drink wine 7 meters beneath where this man was born and wrote his fables. Context transforms everything.
Backup: Ask at tourist office for exact location if you cannot find it.
- Log Memory
Underground calados (cellars) lie 7 meters beneath a 17th-century palace where Samaniego was born. The tour at Bodega El Fabulista starts at street-level grape basins (still used for treading!) then descends through 4 connected cellars. Book at bodegaelfabulista.com or walk in for tours Sun-Thu: 11:30am, 1pm, 4pm, 5:30pm (Fri-Sat has additional times). €14 for 2 wines + aperitivo, €17 for 3 wines. The guide explains how these tunnels served defense AND conspiracy — war plans were drawn up down here.
Backup: Other cellars open too - ask tourist office which have tours today.
- Log Memory
Every house in this medieval town has a cellar — 300+ underground tunnels, many CONNECTED. During medieval times, you could walk beneath the entire town using passages that served as shelters, barracks, wine storage, and conspiracy meeting rooms. After El Fabulista, ask your guide: "Are any other cellars connected to this one?" Some tours can access multiple cellars. Also ask at the tourist office (Plaza Mayor) about underground walking routes open that day.
Backup: Even if tours are not available, several wine shops have visible cellar entrances.
- Log Memory
The 13th-century walls are 2 meters thick, built to guard against Castilians and Moors — "Laguardia" literally means "The Guardian." Buy a bottle from any wine shop in town (€8-15 for good Reserva) and find a quiet spot on the walls facing west (accessible from multiple stairways, best near Portal de Santa Engracia). Time your sunset: the Sierra de Cantabria mountains turn gold, Ysios glows in the distance, and you are drinking wine on fortress walls 700 years old.
Backup: If walls are closed, several restaurants have terraces with the same view.