Itálica: Birthplace of Emperors

What to do there

4 things to do

1. 1

   Sit in the ima cavea — Where the Emperor Watched Men Die

   history Price: low

   The amphitheatre in front of you seated 25,000 people and was the THIRD LARGEST in the entire Roman Empire. Hadrian personally commissioned it — built 117–138 AD — for the city where he was born. The section closest to the arena floor is the ima cavea: 6 rows reserved exclusively for the ruling class. Enter through the main public tunnels at Italíca Archaeological Site, Santiponce (take bus M-172 from Seville's Plaza de Armas, 30 minutes, entrance €1.50 non-EU). Walk down to the lowest seating tier and sit in the stone. The arena was 71 x 46 metres — count how many football pitches would fit. Look at the entrance tunnels where gladiators and animals emerged. In 2017, this exact arena floor was covered with a temporary wooden platform for Game of Thrones' biggest character gathering: the Dragonpit.

   BACKUP: If the ima cavea is roped off for conservation, the media cavea (middle tier) gives the same panoramic view. The arena floor itself is always accessible.

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2. 2

   Find the Mosaic That Proves an Emperor Loved This Town

   history Price: low

   Emperor Hadrian expanded Italíca to the north (nova urbs) as a personal gift to his birthplace. The House of the Birds contains what scholars call 'the most complete and varied avian mosaic in the entire Roman world' — 35 square panels, each depicting a different species: peacock, owl, rooster, heron, parrot, mallard duck. Every tile is original. Every tile is 1,900 years old. No replica. No museum glass. Walk 5 minutes from the amphitheatre through the excavated Roman streets to the House of the Birds in the nova urbs section. Spend 10 minutes at the main mosaic, counting bird species you can identify. Then find the House of the Planetarium (3 minutes north) for seven planetary deities, and the House of Neptune for the Nile scene with crocodiles and hippos.

   BACKUP: If the house is partially covered for conservation, the street-level cobblestones of the nova urbs are themselves original Roman road — you're walking on the same stones Hadrian walked.

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3. 3

   Stand at the Crossroads of Three Emperors

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   No other place on Earth produced three Roman Emperors. Trajan (98–117 AD) — greatest military expansion in Roman history, pushed to Mesopotamia. Hadrian (117–138 AD) — built the Wall, codified Roman law, designed the Pantheon. Possibly Theodosius (379–395 AD) — the last emperor to rule a united Rome. All three from this town. At the main entrance plaza to the nova urbs archaeological zone (information panel near the excavated streets), read the names and do the maths: Italíca was founded in 206 BC by Scipio Africanus — the general who defeated Hannibal. This town predates the Roman Empire by 179 years. Ask yourself: is there anywhere else on Earth where you can stand in the birthplace of the men who ran a civilization that controlled 21% of the world's population?

   BACKUP: The on-site museum at the entrance has busts of both Trajan and Hadrian with multilingual descriptions. Even if the ruins are overwhelmingly hot, the museum is air-conditioned.

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4. 4

   Toast Hadrian with an Amontillado in Seville's Oldest Bar

   wine Price: low

   The province around Seville is called Baetica — the Roman name. Hadrian was born here, the Romans farmed here, and Baetican wine was shipped in amphorae to every corner of the Empire. The wine tradition never stopped. Today Baetica produces Amontillado and Palo Cortado — sherry styles so complex wine critics struggle to find competition. At El Rinconcillo (Calle Gerona 40, Seville — open since 1670, oldest bar in the city, 40 minutes by bus from Italíca), order an Amontillado and let them choose the producer. Pair it with jamón ibérico — the salt lifts the nutty oxidative notes. If you're feeling adventurous, ask: '¿Tiene Palo Cortado?' — the rarest sherry style, one that happens almost entirely by accident. Then raise your glass to Hadrian.

   BACKUP: Casa Morales (Calle García de Vinuesa 11, Arenal neighborhood) was founded in 1850 and has an equally extraordinary sherry range. Both are walking distance from the Cathedral.

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Insider Tips

• The House of Neptune has stunning mosaics

• Game of Thrones filmed the amphitheater as the Dragonpit

• Visit early morning to avoid heat and crowds

• Combine with Seville sherry bars in the evening