Walk the UNESCO Fortress That Saved Helsinki

How to Complete

5 steps curated by Wine Memories

1. 📜 1

   Find the Tomb a King Designed for His General

   history Free

   📍 WHERE: Linnanpiha — the Great Courtyard at the heart of Susisaari island. From the main ferry pier, follow the Blue Route signs inland for about 10 minutes. The courtyard opens suddenly around a corner: iron railings, a stone monument at the centre, residential buildings on three sides.

   💡 WHAT: This is where Augustin Ehrensvärd is buried — the man who built Suomenlinna from 1748. When he died in 1772, King Gustav III of Sweden picked up a pencil and personally sketched the design for his tomb. The sketch was finished by Ehrensvärd's own son and carved by Johan Tobias Sergel — the most famous sculptor in 18th-century Sweden, the man kings commissioned for their own likenesses. Construction took eleven years. For eleven years, Ehrensvärd's coffin sat in a temporary grave at a church in Helsinki while Sergel worked. On 5 July 1783, the King sailed to Suomenlinna in person to witness the coffin being moved to its final resting place in a ceremony attended by the entire fortress garrison.

   🎯 HOW: Stand at the tomb and look at the inscription. The monument is austere, almost severe — no portrait, just classical relief and Latin text. This is deliberate: Sergel and Gustav III wanted it to feel timeless, not decorative. Then look around the courtyard at the surrounding 18th-century stone buildings — people still live here. The fortress is a municipality of 800 residents, and Ehrensvärd's tomb is essentially their town square.

   🔄 BACKUP: If the courtyard is crowded (peak summer weekends), come back at 8am — the ferry runs from 6am and the courtyard is always free to enter. The Ehrensvärd Museum in the Commandant's House at the same courtyard is open May–August (€6 adult) and shows his original drawings and personal effects.

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2. ⛰️ 2

   Walk Into Complete Darkness Inside a 270-Year-Old Fortress Wall

   adventure Free

   📍 WHERE: The Kustaanmiekka tunnel — southern end of the Blue Route, approximately 30-45 minutes walk from the main pier. Follow the Blue Route south past the church and dry dock. The path eventually drops down to the seawall, and the tunnel entrance appears in the stone rampart.

   💡 WHAT: This is 200+ meters of military tunnel carved into the bastion walls of Suomenlinna. Parts of it are in complete, total darkness — not dim, not moody, but the kind of dark where you literally cannot see your hand in front of your face. Swedish military engineers built these passages in the 1750s so soldiers could move between positions under cannon fire. The walls are original 18th-century granite masonry. When you emerge on the far side, you're standing on the seaward rampart with the Baltic Sea in front of you and the King's Gate — built 1753-54 from sandstone shipped all the way from near Stockholm — fifty meters to your left.

   🎯 HOW: Bring a torch or use your phone flashlight — this is not optional for the darkest sections. The tunnel is free and open daily, no guide required. Walk slowly in the dark sections; the floor is uneven original stone. When you exit toward the King's Gate, walk down the wide sandstone steps to the water's edge. This is the exact spot where King Adolf Fredrik of Sweden moored his royal ship in 1752, one year before the gate was built to commemorate the visit. The Baltic laps at the steps. The cannons face outward. The silence is remarkable.

   🔄 BACKUP: If you want guided context through these tunnels, Suomenlinna Tours runs tunnel-specific tours (check suomenlinnatours.com for schedule and booking). Worth it if you want the engineering details — how they calculated angles of fire, why the masonry is built in specific layers.

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3. 🍷 3

   Drink the Beer Soldiers Built a Brewery for — Unpaid

   wine $

   📍 WHERE: Suomenlinnan Panimo (the Suomenlinna Brewery), located right next to the main ferry pier. You'll see it immediately when you arrive — a stone building from the original fortress era, now housing the brewery and restaurant.

   💡 WHAT: When Swedish soldiers arrived here in 1748 to start building the fortress, they brought barrels of beer — beer was part of their daily military rations. As winter approached, the garrison decided they needed a proper brewery on-site. The soldiers reportedly volunteered to work overtime for FREE to build it before the cold hit. That is the spirit this place was re-opened in, when Suomenlinnan Panimo was founded in 1995 in the former jetty barracks. They named one of their beers after Lt. Fredrik Vilhelm Hoppe — he oversaw construction at the fortress, travelled to Britain, fell in love with heavily hopped ales, and brought the style back. He is why there's an IPA named after him being poured in a 270-year-old stone building on a fortified island.

   🎯 HOW: Order the tasting flight: all four house-brewed beers, 4 x 2 deciliters for approximately €10. Ask specifically for Hoppe IPA — tell the bartender the story of the lieutenant and see if they add anything. Hours until April 26, 2026: Mon-Tue 10:30-14:00, Wed-Fri 10:30-21:00, Sat 12:00-21:00, Sun closed.

   🔄 BACKUP: If the brewery is closed (Sunday or Monday-Tuesday afternoons), the K-Market on the island sells Finnish craft beers. Take one to the seawall near the King's Gate — no better picnic table in Helsinki.

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4. 📜 4

   Climb Inside the Only Submarine That Wasn't Scrapped

   Optional

   history $

   📍 WHERE: Artillery Bay on the western shore of Susisaari island — about 15-20 minutes walk from the main pier, following signs for 'Submarine Vesikko'. The submarine sits on the shoreline, olive-grey against the water.

   💡 WHAT: Vesikko was launched in 1933 in Turku, served in Finland's Winter War and Continuation War, and sank one Soviet merchant ship — the Vyborg, her only recorded kill. After World War II, the 1947 Treaty of Paris contained a clause that nobody expected: Finland was permanently forbidden from ever operating submarines again. All of Finland's submarines were sold to Belgium as scrap metal in 1953. All except Vesikko. Someone had the presence of mind to save one. It took over a decade to restore — most of the equipment had been stripped and repurposed after the war — and on the Finnish Navy's anniversary, July 9, 1973, Vesikko opened to the public. Step inside the hatch, squeeze through the corridors, and understand viscerally what it meant to go to war in a 40-meter metal tube. The crew quarters, torpedo bay, and control room are original or period-authentic restoration.

   🎯 HOW: Admission via the Military Museum. Open May 1 – September 30, daily 11:00-18:00, last entry 17:45. Ticket approximately €6-8 (free with Helsinki Card or Museum Card). The interior is tight — anyone over 185cm will need to duck. Bring a layer; the submarine is cool even in summer.

   🔄 BACKUP: If visiting October–April (when Vesikko is closed), the Suomenlinna Museum near the main pier covers naval history year-round (daily 10:30-17:00, summer 10:00-18:00, ~€7-8 adult). Includes a film about fortress history shown every 30 minutes.

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5. ⛰️ 5

   Eat Dinner in a Room That Was Here Before Finland Was a Country

   Optional

   adventure $$

   📍 WHERE: Restaurant Adlerfelt, inside a 250-year-old stone building on Suomenlinna — a 10-minute walk from the main pier. Book in advance at adlerfelt.fi; they take reservations and are not large.

   💡 WHAT: Adlerfelt is the anti-tourist restaurant on an island full of tourists. Head chef Niko Suomalainen runs a seasonal Nordic menu that changes multiple times yearly — the concept is explicit: 'respect for Suomenlinna's food culture' and 'understanding its different eras.' The room predates Finnish independence by 168 years. The walls have been part of a Swedish garrison, a Russian naval base, and a Finnish municipality. The wine list is deliberately chosen to match that kind of seriousness. There is no pizza, no reindeer-for-tourists, and no concession to what visitors 'expect' from Finnish food. You eat what this island produces what this season makes possible.

   🎯 HOW: Current hours (until May 3, 2026): Tue-Thu 12:00 pm (kitchen open to approx. 19:30 pm), Fri-Sat 12:00-19:00 (kitchen to approx. 21:30). Budget €40-60 per person for a full meal with wine. Ask the team what's new on the menu — they rotate constantly. If you're there in summer, ask for a table where you can see the water.

   🔄 BACKUP: If Adlerfelt is fully booked (common on summer weekends — book at least a week ahead), Suomenlinnan Panimo's restaurant serves solid Finnish-inspired food alongside their house beer. Not the same level of ambition, but the setting is still a 270-year-old brewery on a UNESCO fortress island.

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