Mountain refuge wine dinner at Montenvers

The historic railway from Chamonix climbs to Montenvers station, overlooking the Mer de Glace glacier. The refuge restaurant offers winter wine dinners with Savoie wine pairings in a setting that combines mountaineering history with culinary tradition.

What to do there

3 things to do

Buy a return ticket on the Montenvers rack railway (€37). Before you board, know this: when the railway was proposed in 1893, 650 Chamonix families signed a petition against it. They feared tourists would 'destroy the soul' of the valley. The railway opened in 1909 anyway. Now 500,000 people ride it annually. As you climb, look at the valley spreading below and imagine what those families saw coming. They were right about the change. But here you are anyway.

Log Memory
At the top station, find the markers showing where the Mer de Glace glacier surface was in previous years. The 1990 marker is now 200 meters above the current ice. The 1820 marker is almost invisible below. The glacier loses 4-5 meters of depth per year. When the railway opened in 1909, visitors stepped directly onto the ice from the station. Now it's a 500-step descent. You're watching a mountain die. Ask the staff how many steps existed when they started working here.

Log Memory
The Refuge du Montenvers occasionally hosts evening wine dinners with Savoie pairings overlooking the glacier. Book through montblancnaturalresort.com at least 2 weeks ahead. The 'Menu Montagnard' includes 3-4 wine pairings with mountain cuisine. The last train down is around 5pm, but dinner guests stay overnight at the refuge. Watching sunset on the glacier with a glass of Roussette is the real experience. Budget €100-150 per person including wine.

Log Memory

Insider tips

Book the "Menu Montagnard" for full wine pairing (3-4 wines)
The last train down is around 5pm - check current schedule
Winter evenings sometimes offer overnight stays with dinner