Aux Crieurs de Vin: The Troyes Wine Temple

Rosé des Riceys by the glass - rare anywhere in the world. Grower champagnes from the Aube. Andouillette AAAAA gratinée au Chaource (the local sausage with local cheese). This is where your Aube adventure ends: drinking the wines you discovered, eating the food that defines the region.

What to do there

5 things to do

1. 1 Walk Troyes' Medieval Half-Timbered Streets History · Free

   The oldest parts of Troyes are car-free and unchanged since the 1500s.

   Troyes' medieval core survived wars and revolutions because it became a place nobody fought over. Starting from Place de la Cathédrale (48.2975, 4.0751), wander into Ruelle des Chats and the radiating streets where half-timbered houses (maisons à colombages) date to 1400-1600. The pattern is stunning: black wood frames, plaster infill, steep roofs. You're walking through the exact Troyes that wine merchants knew 500 years ago. No map needed — the streets are so narrow (some barely wide enough for two people) that you can't get lost. Spend 45 minutes minimum reading plaques that tell medieval stories and counting timber patterns that are all different.

   Backup: If streets are too crowded, come early morning (before 9am) when Troyes is silent.

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2. 2 Order Rosé des Riceys by the Glass Wine · Price: moderate

   Rare rosé by the glass at a wine bar that respects it.

   Rosé des Riceys by the glass is rare — most places only sell bottles. You've visited where it's made, now taste it properly in a wine bar that respects it. Ask: "Avez-vous du Rosé des Riceys au verre?" They almost certainly do. Compare to what you tasted at the domaine and notice how the setting changes your perception.

   Backup: If sold out, ask which Aube grower champagnes they're pouring.

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3. 3 Try Andouillette AAAAA Gratinée au Chaource Adventure · Price: moderate

   Troyes' signature sausage baked with local cheese - the ultimate regional pairing.

   Andouillette AAAAA Gratinée au Chaource is Troyes' ultimate local pairing — their signature sausage with AAAAA quality certification, baked with local Chaource cheese. Order it from the menu without hesitation. Yes, andouillette has a strong smell — that's part of it, and the Chaource mellows everything into something surprisingly elegant.

   Backup: If you can't handle andouillette, order the Chaource cheese plate instead.

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4. 4 Taste a Grower Champagne from Your Trip Wine · Price: moderate

   Close the loop by tasting Aube producers you visited.

   They stock Aube growers — possibly Drappier, Fleury, or others you visited during your trip. Tasting here closes the loop on your champagne journey. Ask what Aube champagnes they have from their list, mention where you visited — they'll have opinions and recommendations that reveal local wine politics.

   Backup: Any grower champagne works — the point is avoiding the big houses.

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5. 5 Buy a Bottle to Take Home Wine · Price: moderate · Optional

   Take Aube wine home at fair prices.

   If you found something special during your trip that you didn't buy at the domaine, they might have it available for takeaway. Ask about bottles to go — prices are reasonable without tourist markup, and this might be your last chance to secure that discovery wine.

   Backup: If they don't have what you want, ask for recommendations of local caves (wine shops).

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Insider tips

• No reservations needed for bar - book ahead for dinner tables

• Closed Sunday and Monday - plan around this

• The andouillette smell is strong - it's supposed to be

• AAAAA stands for Association Amicale des Amateurs d'Andouillette Authentique

• Chaource cheese has been AOC-protected since 1970

• Ask the sommelier about visiting growers - they'll have recommendations