SIDEQUEST: Natural Wine Underground (Paris)

Paris is where natural wine went from fringe to revolution. Before Brooklyn, before Copenhagen, there was Le Verre Volé, Le Baratin, Le Dauphin. These bars source from the rebel growers you visited. This is the closing ceremony: drink their wines in their spiritual home.

What to do there

5 things to do

1. 1 Navigate the Natural Wine Underground Map (10th-11th-20th) Adventure · Free

   Walk the neighborhood triangle that birthed the natural wine revolution

   You're walking the exact streets where natural wine went from underground sect to mainstream religion. Start at Le Verre Volé (67 Rue de Lancry, 10th), walk southeast to Septime Cave (3 Rue Basfroi, 11th), then east to Le Baratin (3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 20th). 10th arrondissement represents Le Verre Volé's 1999 rebellion, 11th the Septime restaurant scene, 20th Le Baratin's original temple (1987). Walk and observe how graffiti and cafes change from gentrified 10th to raw 20th.

   Backup: Take Metro Line 5 between stops if tired (still counts as navigation of the territory).

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2. 2 Understand Why Paris Birthed the Natural Wine Revolution History · Price: low

   The history that made these bars legendary

   In 1999, Le Verre Volé opened when natural wine was an insult, while Raquel Carena had opened Le Baratin in 1987 serving unmarked wines from growers nobody knew. By 2005, Paris wine bars were the only place in the world pouring natural wine seriously. While Burgundy and Champagne snubbed natural growers, Paris drank them. At any of the three bars (Le Verre Volé, Septime Cave wine bar, or Le Baratin), ask any sommelier to tell you this history — they will. Order a wine, listen, and understand: you're standing in the birthplace of the natural wine movement.

   Backup: Read about this in 'Natural Wine' by Alice Feiring (published 2015) — the definitive history starts in 1990s Paris.

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3. 3 Start at Le Verre Volé (The Stolen Glass) Wine · Price: moderate

   The bar that started the revolution

   The bar that started the revolution has operated at 67 Rue de Lancry, 10th arrondissement since 2000, before natural wine was even a term. Tiny, crowded, perfect — they'll have grower champagnes you can't find elsewhere. Arrive 6pm to snag a table and order whatever the sommelier recommends. Trust them completely.

   Backup: If packed (likely), try their nearby wine shop - same owners, same taste.

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4. 4 Taste at Septime Cave (The Curator's Selection) Wine · Price: moderate

   Wine shop for one of Paris's best restaurants

   The wine shop for Septime restaurant (1 Michelin star) curates selections from top natural producers at 3 Rue Basfroi, 11th arrondissement. They'll have champagnes from Laherte, Chartogne-Taillet, maybe Prévost. Browse, ask questions, buy bottles to take home — prices are reasonable for this level of curation.

   Backup: Septime restaurant next door if you want to continue the experience.

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5. 5 End at Le Baratin (The Original Temple) Wine · Price: moderate

   1987 birthplace before natural wine was even named

   Le Baratin opened in 1987 at 3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 20th arrondissement — before natural wine existed as a category. Raquel Carena cooks, the wine list is legendary, and this is the temple. Book ahead for dinner or just drink at the bar, but either way, ask what grower champagnes they're pouring.

   Backup: If full, try nearby Yard or Aux Deux Amis.

   Log Memory

Insider tips

• Le Verre Volé opened in 2000 - ground zero for the movement

• Le Baratin is the spiritual ancestor - Raquel Carena is a legend

• Paris cave prices are often cheaper than buying at domaines

• Tuesday-Thursday evenings are less crowded than weekends

• These bars inspired Brooklyn, Copenhagen, London - you're in the source

• Ask sommeliers about their favorites - they visit these growers annually