Val d'Isère's legendary late-night institution since 1979

Dick's Tea Bar has been Val d'Isère's nightlife institution since 1979. Founded by British ski legend Dick Yates, it pioneered the British après-ski invasion of the French Alps. The "tea" is ironic—this is where La Folie Douce graduates come to continue the party until 4am.

What to do there

4 things to do

1. 1 Walk Val d'Isère's Car-Free Village Before Nightfall Adventure · Free

   Val d'Isère sits at 1,850m as one of the Alps' highest ski resorts and site of the 1992 Winter Olympics downhill races. The village center is partially car-free with cobblestone streets winding between traditional stone buildings and modern luxury chalets - this is where British ski culture invaded the French Alps, starting with Dick's Tea Bar in 1979. Walk from Place Jacques Mouflier toward Dick's Tea Bar at 4pm (last lifts closing) and you'll see the transition: ski gear clattering, groups heading to bars, energy building toward nightlife. Notice the mix of Savoyard architecture meeting British pub culture - the physical manifestation of 1970s-80s British skiers claiming Val d'Isère as their own.

   Backup: If weather is bad, visit the Maison de la Montagne (village center) for village history and Olympic exhibits.

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2. 2 Enter the Game Hall That Became an Empire History · Price: low

   In 1979, a British ski instructor named Dick Yates-Smith took over a failing game hall in Val d'Isère. He couldn't get a license to serve alcohol, so he called it a 'Tea Bar' (the tea is ironic - always has been). Forty-five years later, it's Val d'Isère's nightlife institution and the template for British après-ski worldwide. Look for photos of Dick on the walls. He died in 2016, but his bar outlived him. Ask the staff about 'the legend' - they've all heard the stories.

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3. 3 Claim the Upstairs Gallery Before Midnight Adventure · Price: moderate

   The downstairs is chaos after 11pm - 500 people, British stag groups, the DJ making conversation impossible. Find the stairs to the upstairs gallery before it fills. Claim the corner booth overlooking the dance floor. Order a bottle of wine (yes, they have wine - ask for Savoie producers) and watch the chaos below like a Roman emperor. The gallery is the only place where you can talk, breathe, and still feel the energy. By midnight, you won't be able to get up there.

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4. 4 Survive Until 3:30am Last Call Adventure · Price: moderate · Optional

   Dick's closes at 4am, last drinks at 3:30. If you're still standing, order a bottle of wine for the final hour and pace yourself. The live music stops around 2am and gives way to DJ sets. The crowd thins as people stumble home. Those who remain are the dedicated ones. At 3:45am, the lights come up and you'll see the battlefield: a room of survivors. There's nowhere to go after Dick's except home. This is the final boss of Val d'Isère nightlife.

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Insider tips

• The party only starts at 10pm - don't arrive at 8pm wondering where everyone is

• The upstairs is less crushed - order wine, find a corner, people-watch

• Last drinks at 3:30am, kicked out by 4am - plan your stumble home