Crozes-Hermitage Exploration

What to do there

5 things to do

1. 1

   Walk Into Cave de Tain and Taste 250 Growers at Once

   wine Free

   Cave de Tain controls 45% of all Crozes-Hermitage production — 250 member growers across 700 hectares. When you taste their Grand Classique rouge at the free bar, you're not tasting one winemaker's vision. You're tasting a distillation of almost HALF the appellation. The co-op also owns 5 hectares on Hermitage hill itself (the famous hill), which almost no co-op anywhere in France can claim. Walk into Cave de Tain (22 Route de Larnage, 26600 Tain-l'Hermitage) — no booking required for the free tasting bar. Ask specifically for the 'Grand Classique' Crozes rouge AND the Hermitage rouge side by side. They'll pour both. Budget €0 for this. Open Mon–Sat 10:00–12:30 + 14:00–18:30; Sun 10:00–12:30 + 14:00–18:00.

   BACKUP: If the tasting bar is too crowded, Chapoutier's tasting room is 200 meters away on the same street and also free. M. Chapoutier's Dureza wine bar (evening) pours by the glass.

   Log Memory
2. 2

   Find the Sons of Alain Graillot — The Man Who Invented This Appellation

   wine Price: moderate

   In 1985, Alain Graillot was a Parisian salesman working in agricultural chemicals. He quit, called Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac (Burgundy royalty) for guidance, bought land in what was then a genuinely obscure appellation, and made his first wine. By 2005, his wines had appeared on Wine Spectator's Top 100 list seven times — including three times in the Top 10. He essentially invented the quality template for all of Crozes-Hermitage. His sons Maxime and Antoine continue exactly his methods: 100% whole-cluster Syrah, no new oak barrels, aged in old Burgundy wood and concrete at Domaine Alain Graillot (105 Chemin des Chênes Verts, 26600 Pont de l'Isère). Call +33 (0)4 75 84 67 52 at least 2–3 days in advance and ask for a tasting appointment. Expect to taste the Crozes rouge (around €22–28), possibly the La Guiraude top cuvée (€45+), and wines from Domaine des Lises/Equis.

   BACKUP: If no appointment is available, both domaines sell through Cave de Tain's shop and most wine shops in Tain. Ask specifically for the Graillot Crozes rouge or the Equis 'Les Pichères.' Drinking it at Le Mangevins wine bar in Tain by the glass is the next best option.

   Log Memory
3. 3

   Climb to the Chapel That Named a Legend — and Read the View Like a Map

   history Free

   In 1224, a crusader knight named Gaspard de Sterimberg returned from the Fifth Crusade, renounced violence, obtained permission from Queen Blanche of Castile, and built a hermitage chapel on this hill. He planted vines around it for the rest of his life. That is the literal origin of the name 'Hermitage.' The chapel (Chapelle Saint-Christophe, also called simply La Chapelle) still stands — and Jaboulet named their most famous Hermitage wine after it. Start at Tain-l'Hermitage train station (or the Cave de Tain parking lot) and head uphill toward the Hermitage vineyards, following signs for 'La Chapelle' or 'Chapelle Saint-Christophe.' The walk is about 30–40 minutes up through the vines to the summit chapel. From the terrace at the top, the view sweeps over the full bend of the Rhône — you're standing on 136 hectares of the most expensive dirt in France, looking out at 2,007 hectares of almost equally good dirt that sells for one-fifth the price.

   BACKUP: If weather makes the climb difficult, the Jaboulet 'Vineum' tasting room at the base of the hill (by appointment) has an exhibition on the hill's history and lets you taste La Chapelle by the glass.

   Log Memory
4. 4

   Visit Domaine Combier and Taste the Clos des Grives — 50 Years of Organic Vines

   Optional

   wine Price: moderate

   Laurent Combier's grandfather started organic farming here in the 1970s — before organic was fashionable, before it had a certification, before anybody in the Northern Rhône was doing it. The flagship wine, Clos des Grives, comes from old vines in a specific enclosed plot: truffle, leather, wild berries, the concentrated savory depth that only very old biodynamic vines produce. This is one of the genuinely age-worthy benchmark cuvées of the entire Crozes appellation at Domaine Combier (1440 Route de Lyon, 26600 Pont-de-l'Isère). Call or email ahead (check domaine-combier.com for current contact). Individual tastings are reportedly free of charge, though a purchase is courteous. Ask specifically to taste the 'Clos des Grives' if available — it's the wine to judge the estate by. Visits Mon–Fri and Saturday mornings, by appointment.

   BACKUP: Domaine Combier wines are available at most good wine shops in Tain. Look for 'Cap Nord' (entry cuvée, ~€18) or 'Clos des Grives' (~€38).

   Log Memory
5. 5

   Drive Into the Village of Crozes and Find the Appellation's Quiet Heart

   Optional

   history Free

   Almost nobody who visits the Crozes-Hermitage appellation actually visits the village of Crozes. They taste the wine and leave. But this village is why the appellation has its name. The medieval priory church of Notre-Dame predates the appellation by centuries — it was a religious waypoint on the road between Lyon and Valence before anyone thought to put the village's name on a wine bottle. In 1920, the local prefecture insisted the village add 'Hermitage' to its name to distinguish it from Crozes in the Creuse département. Park in the village center of Crozes-Hermitage (5 km north of Tain-l'Hermitage on the D532 road). The Notre-Dame church is typically open during daylight hours. Walk to the natural viewpoint called 'Pierre Aiguille' or 'Les Méjeans' (both signposted from the village center) — from there, you can see the Hermitage hill, the Rhône valley, and a sweep of vineyard that produced wine when Romans were building roads through Gaul.

   BACKUP: If you can't reach the viewpoints (locked path, weather), the view from the D532 road just north of the village offers a similar sweep of vineyard over the Rhône valley — pull over at any safe lay-by.

   Log Memory

Insider Tips

• Domaine Alain Graillot is the benchmark

• Domaine Combier for biodynamic excellence

• Much better value than Hermitage

• Some wines are ready young — others can age decades