Naples Historic Wine Bars

What to do there

5 things to do

1. 1

   Walk the Decumano — Rome's Most Storied Street, Still Alive

   adventure Free

   The street you're walking on — Via dei Tribunali — was laid out in 470 BC by Greek colonists. Not updated, not rerouted: the SAME alignment, the SAME width, the SAME grid of alleys cutting north and south (Piazza San Gaetano, where the church of San Lorenzo Maggiore stands, walking west toward Piazza Bellini — about 500 meters). It's called the Decumano Maggiore, the main east-west axis of ancient Neapolis. Julius Caesar walked this road. Pliny the Elder, who spent his life cataloguing the wines of Campania, walked this road. Two thousand five hundred years of boots and sandals and Vespa tires on the same stone axis. Come late afternoon, 5-7pm when the narrow street opens suddenly into Piazza San Gaetano — directly above the buried Roman forum and Greek agora. Continue to Piazza Bellini where 4th century BC Greek walls stick up from excavated pits right in the middle of the bar terraces. Order a spritz (€3-4) and sit with 2,400-year-old walls at knee height.

   BACKUP: If crowds are overwhelming, the early morning (8-9am) version is equally moving and completely empty. The narrow street keeps the light low all day — it always feels slightly cinematic.

   Log Memory
2. 2

   Descend 40 Meters — Into the Greek City Rome Couldn't Destroy

   history Price: moderate

   In the 3rd century BC, Greek settlers carved into the soft tufa stone beneath Neapolis to quarry building material, leaving a honeycomb of tunnels. The Romans inherited this and in the Augustan era engineered a complete aqueduct system through these tunnels, fed by springs 70 kilometers away. Today you descend 136 steps (40 meters) at Napoli Sotterranea (Piazza San Gaetano 68/69, napolisotterranea.org), and in the absolute silence underground, surrounded by Greek walls and Roman plumbing, you'll feel what it means to stand in a city that has refused to disappear for 25 centuries. Book directly at napolisotterranea.org or simply walk in — tours depart frequently. Wear something with a layer; it's cool underground. The tour lasts about 1 hour, emerging back onto Via dei Tribunali — the Roman street above the Greek street.

   BACKUP: If Napoli Sotterranea is full, the excavations inside San Lorenzo Maggiore Basilica (same piazza, free entry) show the Greek agora directly beneath the nave.

   Log Memory
3. 3

   Find the €4 Glass — Bucopertuso and the Wine Pliny Ranked #1

   wine Price: low

   This is the wine bar Naples doesn't want you to find — partially underground, tiny, charging €3-5 for a glass of Campanian wine with no tourist markup at Bucopertuso (Via Giovanni Paladino 21, Pendino neighborhood, 5-minute walk from Via dei Tribunali heading south). Ask for Falanghina — the direct descendant of Falernum, the wine Pliny the Elder ranked #1 in the entire Roman Empire. The grape's name literally comes from the Latin falangae — the wooden stakes used to train the vines, staked the same way since 730 BC when Greek colonists first planted here. Scientists found Falanghina grape seeds preserved in Pompeii's ash and they're growing the same grape from those seeds at Pompeii right now. When the glass arrives, smell for the characteristic citrus and slight mineral edge — that's 2,750 years of Campanian volcanic soil. Walk in, find a spot (the bar fills fast after 8pm), ask the staff what's open from Campania.

   BACKUP: If Bucopertuso has a line, walk to L'Ebrezza di Noè at Vico Vetriera a Chiaia 8b — slightly more polished, Proprietor Luca is passionate about Campanian wine and opens bottles nobody else carries.

   Log Memory
4. 4

   Taste Lacryma Christi — The Wine That Grows on an Active Volcano

   wine Price: moderate

   Ask specifically for Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio — the wine that grows on slopes of an active volcano, 15km from L'Ebrezza di Noè (Vico Vetriera a Chiaia 8b/9, Chiaia neighborhood, near the waterfront). The DOC covers just 15 villages at the feet of Vesuvius, and the name itself is legend: 'Tears of Christ,' said to be where Christ wept watching Lucifer's fall. Mastroberardino, the winery founded in 1878, was producing over 90% of all Taurasi DOCG wine alone — one family keeping an entire wine culture alive while southern Italy was ignored by the world. In 1968, their Taurasi Riserva caused a sensation and essentially started the red-wine revolution of the Italian south. Now they're replanting vineyards inside Pompeii itself using exact grape varieties from before the 79 AD eruption. Order the Lacryma Christi bianco first to taste the volcanic mineral edge, then the rosso. Ask for Luca — the proprietor who has spent his career building what may be the best Campanian wine selection in any bar in the city.

   BACKUP: If L'Ebrezza di Noè is closed, Decanter recommends Vineria Bandita (Vomero district) — the first enoteca dedicated entirely to natural wines in southern Italy.

   Log Memory
5. 5

   Stand Above Pompeii's Vineyard — At Pizza Fritta in Spaccanapoli

   Optional

   adventure Price: low

   Spaccanapoli means 'Naples splitter' — the street so straight and narrow it looks like it splits the city in two when seen from the hills above (Via Benedetto Croce / Via San Biagio dei Librai, the Decumano Inferiore, 200 meters south of Via dei Tribunali). It's 2,500 years of people eating and drinking along this ancient Greek line. Find a pizza fritta stall — the original Naples street food, fried pizza dough filled with ricotta and cicoli, eaten standing up. The fried version predates the oven version: when post-war Naples couldn't afford wood-fired ovens, they fried the dough in lard. Pair it with a small glass of Falanghina (€2-3) or limoncello spritz. Walk east from Piazza del Gesù Nuovo toward Via San Gregorio Armeno — the best pizza fritta stalls are mid-block. Eat it warm and immediately, standing on a 2,500-year-old Roman street with volcanic wine.

   BACKUP: If no pizza fritta available, try cuoppo — a paper cone of mixed fried seafood (calamari, shrimp, minnows), same price range, same standing-up-on-the-street tradition.

   Log Memory

Insider Tips

• Enoteca Belledonne in Chiaia is a local favorite

• Try wines from Campania Felix - the "Fortunate Land" Romans loved

• Pair with pizza fritta or cuoppo (fried seafood)

• Walk the Decumani - the ancient Roman streets still in use