Populonia & Gulf of Baratti

The only Etruscan city on the sea. Iron smelting funded their wine trade. The necropolis has extraordinary tombs, and the beach is perfect for a wine picnic.

What to do there

4 things to do

1. 1 Find the Tomb the Iron Slag Buried for 2,000 Years History · Price: moderate

   In the 4th century BCE, iron smelting at Populonia grew so intense that industrial slag buried this entire cemetery for 2,000 years — that accident is why the tombs survived. The Necropolis of San Cerbone (GPS: 42.9813, 10.5038, €7 adults) contains the Tomb of the Chariots with an actual 650 BCE Etruscan chariot and sound installation playing Odyssey passages. Grave goods included ivory from Egypt, amber from the Baltic, pottery from Greece — all traded through the port visible from the hill. Saturday evenings in July-August feature torch-lit tours until 11:30 PM among 2,700-year-old tombs under stars.

   Backup: If the park is closed (January: acropolis only, necropolis still open), the slag heaps are visible from the road and the context is still apparent. The Archaeological Museum in Piombino (20 min drive) holds the grave goods and the Baratti Silver Amphora — accidentally recovered by divers from the Gulf in 1968, now considered one of the finest examples of late Roman silver work.

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2. 2 Climb the Tower of the City Named After the Wine God History · Free

   The Etruscans named this city Fufluna — derived from Fufluns, their wine god — making it the ONLY city in Etruscan civilization literally meaning 'City of the Wine God.' The medieval Torre dell'Assunta (GPS: 42.9897, 10.4909) was built by Pisans using stones from Etruscan buildings, offering 360-degree views from San Vincenzo to Punta Ala with Corsica visible on clear days. Walk through the village gate to the highest point, then continue 15 minutes uphill to acropolis ruins and Poggio del Telegrafo viewpoint overlooking the Gulf where Etruscan wine traders watched ships 2,500 years ago.

   Backup: Even if the tower interior is closed, the viewpoint walk from the village takes 15 minutes and costs nothing. The acropolis ruins — temple foundations, Roman-era mosaics, remnants of Etruscan walls — are accessible on the walking path. The view alone is worth the drive.

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3. 3 Drink Vermentino on the Beach That Built French Wine Wine · Price: low

   Etruscans from Populonia exported wine to southern France by 500 BCE — their amphorae with chemical wine traces were found at ancient Lattara (now Montpellier), and biomolecular analysis confirmed Etruscan wine from this coast kickstarted French viticulture. At any beach bar along Spiaggia di Baratti (GPS: 42.9908, 10.5073), order Vermentino IGT Costa Toscana — the local white with characteristic salty finish echoing the sea it overlooks — plus spaghetti alle vongole from this exact gulf. You're tasting the same terroir that built French wine identity.

   Backup: In winter or shoulder season when beach bars are closed, La Taverna di Populonia in the medieval village (open year-round) serves a glass of Vermentino for €8 and has outdoor garden seating. The beach itself is accessible and free year-round.

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4. 4 Visit the Underground Winery That Honors the First Winemakers Wine · Price: moderate · Optional

   Guado al Melo's underground winery (Località Murrotto 130/A, Castagneto Carducci, GPS: 43.1931, 10.6252) sits in territory historically part of Populonia's city-state, with an internal museum dedicated to Etruscan winemaking. Their flagship 'Atis' honors the legendary Etruscan king — the same people whose tombs you walked through in the necropolis. Just 20 minutes south, Tua Rita's Redigaffi Merlot became the first Italian wine to receive Robert Parker's 100 points on this Etruscan soil. Book in advance (+39 0565 763238), April–October tours by appointment, €20-30 with tasting.

   Backup: If Guado al Melo is fully booked, Ornellaia and Sassicaia (both Bolgheri DOC, 5 minutes away) offer estate visits at higher price points. Alternatively, the village of Bolgheri itself — the cypress-lined avenue is free to walk — plus the Enoteca Tognoni in the village square carries the full Bolgheri DOC lineup for tasting by the glass.

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Insider tips

• Necropolis has multiple tomb types — allow 2 hours

• Baratti beach is beautiful and swimmable

• Acropolis hike offers stunning views

• Combine with Bolgheri tastings