Montalcino - Brunello Kingdom

What to do there

5 things to do

1. 1

   Taste 250 Brunellos Inside a Medici War Fortress

   wine Price: moderate

   This is the ONLY place on earth you can taste Brunello from virtually all 250+ producers in a single sitting — when Ferruccio Biondi-Santi bottled the first Brunello in 1888, he was the ONLY producer. The Enoteca la Fortezza (Piazzale Fortezza 9, daily 9AM–8PM) sits inside Montalcino's medieval fortress walls, where the 1888 vintage was re-tasted in 1994 (106 years later!) and still showed stunning form. Order the 3-Brunello flight (€40) and ask Fabio to contrast north-slope elegance against south-slope power — same grape, completely different wine. Walk the ramparts afterward for views across UNESCO Val d'Orcia.

   BACKUP: Individual Brunello glasses start at €10–15. Rosso di Montalcino (same Sangiovese Grosso clone, same vineyards, released younger) runs €6–8 and shows the terroir without the mandatory 5-year aging wait.

   Log Memory
2. 2

   Find the 1888 Cellar — Birthplace of Brunello

   Optional

   wine Price: high

   In 1865, Clemente Santi noticed one particular Sangiovese clone produced grapes with thicker skin and greater intensity than anything else in Tuscany. His grandson Ferruccio spent his life perfecting it and in 1888 bottled the first Brunello di Montalcino ever made. Villa Greppo 183's historic cellar holds bottles going back to that first 1888 vintage — only Dom Pérignon and Château Pétrus can claim to have invented their appellation the same way. Book months in advance (+39 0577 848023, ~40 people yearly), €50 tour includes the oldest Brunello in existence.

   BACKUP: If fully booked (likely), visit the Consorzio del Brunello office on Via Boldrini in town — they maintain a list of 20+ estates with 24-hour notice visits, including Casanova di Neri (Strada Provinciale 14, +39 0577 834455), world-class and far more accessible.

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3. 3

   Hear Gregorian Chant in Charlemagne's Abbey

   history Free

   Charlemagne supposedly founded this abbey in 781 AD, but the current honey-colored travertine and Algerian onyx alabaster building dates to the 12th century. Premonstratensian monks at Abbazia di Sant'Antimo (GPS: 42.9931, 11.5094, 9km south on SP55) perform Gregorian chant six times daily in the nearly 1000-year-old nave while light pours gold through alabaster windows. Arrive by 12:30 for the 12:45 Sesta chant, sit silently in wooden pews, then touch the carved Romanesque capitals whose iconography still puzzles art historians. Brunello vines grow right up to the abbey walls.

   BACKUP: If you miss a chant time, the next is always within 2–3 hours. The building itself rewards waiting — the alabaster glows differently every hour.

   Log Memory
4. 4

   Decode the Wine Scandal at the Tempio del Brunello

   history Price: low

   In March 2008, journalists revealed 20+ Brunello producers had secretly blended illegal grapes into what is by law 100% Sangiovese wine — authorities seized 6.5 million litres in 'Brunellopoli.' The Complesso di Sant'Agostino (Via Ricasoli 31, GPS: 43.0589, 11.4885, Fri–Sun 10:30–17:30, Mon–Tue 10:30–19:00) tells the full scandal story inside a former 14th-century convent. Ask at the desk for the Brunellopoli exhibit, then find the Duccio triptych and Simone Martini Madonna most visitors walk past. Count how many accused producers remain among current Consorzio members.

   BACKUP: If closed (Wed–Thu), the Consorzio del Brunello office on Via Boldrini (free entry) has producer maps and staff who explain the appellation boundaries in detail.

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5. 5

   Eat Pici e Cinghiale at the Last Republic's Table

   adventure Price: low

   Montalcino was the LAST city of the independent Republic of Siena, holding out against Medici conquest until 1559 — two years after the rest fell. The locals remain fierce about this independence. At Re di Macchia (Via Mazzini 21, GPS: 43.0584, 11.4900) watch pici being hand-rolled through the kitchen window — 20 minutes per portion. The cinghiale ragù comes from actual wild boar from Monte Amiata forests. Order pici al cinghiale (€12–16) with Rosso di Montalcino (€6–8) — same Sangiovese Grosso grape, better pairing than Brunello with rich ragù.

   BACKUP: If Re di Macchia is full, Drogheria e Locanda Franci (Piazzale Fortezza area) has a cellar dining room with a spiral staircase. Order the porcini lasagna or the pigeon at similar prices.

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Insider Tips

• Fortezza wine bar — all producers, great prices

• Biondi-Santi created Brunello — visit if possible

• Sant'Antimo Abbey is hauntingly beautiful

• Book serious producer visits well in advance