Selinunte - Temple Wine Picnic

What to do there

4 things to do

1. 1

   Stand Where 16,000 People Died in Nine Days

   history Price: low

   WHERE: East Hill entrance to the Selinunte Archaeological Park, Piazzale Iole Bovio Marconi 1, Marinella di Selinunte. Park ticket costs €6 (free on the first Sunday of every month). Hours: 9am–8pm in summer, 9am–7pm in spring.

   WHAT: In 409 BC, a Carthaginian army of 30,000 soldiers sailed from North Africa, landed on Sicily, and gave this city nine days. Nine. A civilization that had been building the largest temples in the Greek world for 200 years — gone in just over a week. Hannibal Mago (the grandfather's generation of the famous Hannibal, different family entirely) slaughtered approximately 16,000 people here and enslaved 5,000 more. Archaeologists excavating the site found meals left uneaten on tables. Nobody had time to flee properly. The wild celery plant that gave Selinus its name (selinon in Greek) still grows near the river mouth today — the same plant that appeared on the city's own coins.

   HOW: Buy your ticket at the main entrance booth. Before walking anywhere else, stop at the site map near the entrance and orient yourself: two hills separated by a valley. The East Hill (where you are now) held the grandest temples. Walk directly toward Temple E — the standing one with columns bathed in golden light. You're about to confront what a city looks like when it's simply stopped.

   BACKUP: If the ticket booth has a queue, note that the first Sunday of every month is free admission — plan accordingly. The golf cart shuttle between East Hill and Acropolis costs €8 if walking 1.5-2 km feels too far.

   Log Memory
2. 2

   Walk Among the Columns That Outplanned the Parthenon

   history Free

   WHERE: East Hill temple complex — Temple E (standing, reconstructed) and Temple G (collapsed field of column drums), both within 200 meters of each other on the East Hill.

   WHAT: Two temples, two very different lessons. Temple E (Temple of Hera, built mid-5th century BC) was controversially reconstructed in 1956-59 by Italian archaeologist Jole Bovio Marconi — its columns stand again, 10.19 meters high, still showing traces of the original stucco that once covered them. Art historian Cesare Brandi thought it was a mistake: "the ruins possessed tragic beauty that history had preserved for twenty centuries." Make up your own mind. Then walk to Temple G, 100 meters away, and you'll understand why Selinunte was spoken of with awe across the ancient world. This temple's measurements: 113 meters long, 54 meters wide, columns planned at 16 meters high with a base diameter of 3.4 meters — each column drum weighing approximately 100 tons. The Parthenon in Athens is 69.5 meters long. Temple G was nearly twice the length. It was started around 530 BC and was STILL UNFINISHED on the day the Carthaginians arrived. When you walk through the field of fallen column drums, you're walking through the wreckage of the ancient world's most ambitious construction site.

   HOW: Included in your €6 park ticket — no separate charge for any temple area. Allow at least 30-45 minutes on the East Hill. Bring water and sun protection in summer. The best time to be here is the golden hour before sunset — Temple E's columns glow orange-red against the sea behind them.

   BACKUP: The on-site Baglio Florio Museum (included in ticket, open 8:30am–7:30pm Apr-Sep) is in a 19th-century building that was once a Florio family wine estate — the same Florio family who invented Marsala wine. It holds sculptures and architectural fragments from the temples.

   Log Memory
3. 3

   Drink Grillo Among Fallen Temple Drums at Sunset

   wine Price: low

   WHERE: The valley between the East Hill and the Acropolis has official picnic tables and shade. But the real move is carrying your picnic into the Temple G drum field on the East Hill — you can sit between column drums the size of small cars while looking out over the Mediterranean.

   WHAT: Before entering the park, stop at Enoteca Siciliana in Marinella di Selinunte (near the park entrance) and pick up a bottle of Grillo, the white wine that defines this corner of Sicily. Grillo grapes grow in the sandy calcareous soils of Menfi DOC — the winemaking territory that begins about 15 km from where you're sitting. Look for Mandrarossa Costadune Grillo (~€10-15) from Cantine Settesoli, whose 500 hectares of vines sit in the same Menfi landscape you can nearly see from the temple hill. This grape was created in 1873 as a crossing of Zibibbo (the ancient grape of Pantelleria) and Catarratto — two vines that have been growing within sight of these ruins for centuries. The wine tastes of prickly pear, grapefruit, and basil, with a fleshy weight that surprises anyone who expects a simple light Sicilian white.

   HOW: Bring: one bottle of chilled Grillo, a wedge of local aged pecorino, bread, and a tin of Sicilian caponata (all available at Enoteca Siciliana). Arrive at the East Hill 90 minutes before sunset. Find a comfortable spot among the column drums of Temple G — the fallen stones are wide enough to sit on. Open the wine, pour, and look west toward the water. This is where, 2,400 years ago, 16,000 people's last evening was. You're raising a glass over their city. Let that land before you talk.

   BACKUP: If Enoteca Siciliana is closed, the café inside the park (in the valley) sells basic provisions. Any local Nero d'Avola works as a red alternative — holds up beautifully to the sun.

   Log Memory
4. 4

   Find the Acropolis Where Apollo's Temple Still Stands

   Optional

   history Free

   WHERE: The Acropolis of Selinunte is a separate hill approximately 1.5-2 km west of the East Hill temples. Walk through the valley (past the picnic area and café) or take the €8 golf cart shuttle.

   WHAT: Temple C on the Acropolis is the oldest surviving building at Selinunte — dated to around 580-550 BC, dedicated to Apollo. In 1925, archaeologists re-erected 14 of the 17 original columns. What makes it worth the walk: the gorgon head in the pediment, and the knowledge that this building was already 170 years old when the Carthaginians arrived. The original sculpted metopes — Perseus beheading Medusa while Athena watches, Heracles carrying the Cercopes on his shoulders — were removed to Palermo's Archaeological Museum. But the columns stand over the south coast of Sicily, looking exactly toward Carthage across the sea. The Apollo who faced Carthage from this hill lost, but his temple outlasted the city that destroyed his people. WHAT ELSE: The acropolis was the residential and civic heart of the city. You're walking ancient streets between temple bases. Look for the grid pattern of the ancient urban layout — Selinus was a planned city, its streets running at right angles with a precision that would have made any Roman proud.

   HOW: Included in the €6 park ticket. The walk from the East Hill takes 20-25 minutes through open grassland with sea views on both sides. Or take the shuttle. Allow another 30-45 minutes on the acropolis itself. The views back toward the East Hill temples from here — standing columns at one end, sea at the other — are the frame for understanding the entire city.

   BACKUP: If time is short, skip the walk and do the acropolis by car (there's a separate car park). Or visit the Baglio Florio on-site museum first (included in ticket) for context before tackling the full site on foot.

   Log Memory

Insider Tips

• East temples are most photogenic

• Bring your own wine — no facilities

• Quiet beaches nearby for swimming

• Best in spring when wildflowers bloom