Benanti Viticoltori - Pioneer of Etna Wine Renaissance

Visit the winery that pioneered Etna's modern wine renaissance, with vineyards on every slope of the volcano. Tour the 19th-century estate at Monte Serra, walk among century-old Nerello Mascalese vines, explore the historic Palmento (wine press), and taste 4-5 wines from different Contradas paired with chef-prepared local delicacies.

What to do there

5 things to do

1. 1 Walk Among the Vines That Phylloxera Couldn't Kill History · Free

   In the late 1800s, phylloxera annihilated 60% of Europe's vineyards, but on Etna it simply stopped — the volcanic sand is so dense with silica the pest literally drowns before reaching roots. The centenary alberello vines at Benanti's Monte Serra estate are own-rooted, the same genetic plant pressed into soil over 100 years ago. When Giuseppe Benanti started here in 1988, four wineries existed in the Etna DOC; today there are 154, but these vines were here before all of them. During the estate tour, your guide walks you from the 19th-century building up the ancient volcanic cone where the view of the Ionian Sea opens behind you. Ask to see the alberello training — low, ungrafted bush-vines in traditional quinconce pattern. Place your hand on a trunk; that wood is 100+ years old.

   Backup: If the vineyard walk is shortened due to weather, the older vine sections are visible from the estate terrace — ask the guide to point out the centenary rows from there.

   Log Memory
2. 2 Enter the Palmento: Wine Made by Lava and Gravity History · Price: moderate

   Before EU regulations banned commercial winemaking in them, the palmento was how ALL Etna wine was made — a lava stone structure using only gravity. Workers dumped grapes through the 'buttatoio' (high window) onto the 'pista' (wide lava stone floor) for stomping, then must ran through 'bocche di cane' channels into the 'tina' below. The volcano provided building material; physics did the rest. The 18th-century Palmento at Monte Serra (included in main tour, ~€50, reservation required via visit.benanti.it) is one of Etna's largest and best-preserved, where the Benanti family has grown wine since 1734 when a Bolognese ancestor was granted this land by King Victor Amadeus II. Ask your guide about the dog-mouth channels in the floor and how gravity replaced three centuries of technology.

   Backup: If the palmento building is under restoration, the guide covers the process using models and drawings inside the estate reception.

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3. 3 Taste the Same Volcano From Five Directions Wine · Price: moderate

   Benanti is the only winery on Earth with vineyards on all four slopes of the Etna DOC — the result of 37 years of land acquisition starting when Giuseppe Benanti hired oenologist Salvo Foti in 1988 and they began mapping Etna's micro-terroirs before 'contrada' meant anything. Different lava flows from different centuries mean different minerals: 1614 has completely different chemistry than 1879. In the tasting room (reservation required, includes 4-5 wines with ALMA-trained chef's food), ask to understand slope orientation of each wine: Monte Serra (SE, 450m, maritime influence), Calderara Sottana (North, old soils), Rinazzo (East, 800m — the Pietra Marina white). For the Pietra Marina, ask when it was bottled — critics say this Carricante needs 10 years to reach full character: musky, mineral, saline, with dried wildflowers and a finish like walking along sea-cliffs.

   Backup: If a specific contrada wine is unavailable, the entry-level Etna Rosso and Etna Bianco both express the Monte Serra terroir clearly and are excellent starting points.

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4. 4 Request Serra della Contessa — Italy Noticed Etna Here Wine · Price: high · Optional

   This is the wine that earned Benanti Winery of the Year in 2007 Gambero Rosso with Tre Bicchieri — Italy's highest wine honor. Serra della Contessa Riserva (~€40-70, request during tasting or purchase at estate shop) comes from Monte Serra contrada: ~85% Nerello Mascalese, ~15% Nerello Cappuccio, from those centenary own-rooted vines you walked among. When Giuseppe Benanti started in 1988, the appellation had four wineries; when he handed it to sons Antonio and Salvino in 2012, Etna appeared in every serious wine publication on Earth. The label reads 'Particella No. 587' — the specific vineyard parcel showing how seriously this estate treats provenance. Taste for: fresh and dried cherry, rose petal, warm earth, leather, cold espresso, volcanic smoke whisper. It should feel less like Barolo's muscle, more like Burgundy's clarity.

   Backup: If the Riserva is unavailable, the Contrada Monte Serra Etna Rosso expresses the same terroir at slightly lighter register.

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5. 5 Stand on Monte Serra and Watch the Volcano That Made This Adventure · Free

   From the upper terrace at Benanti's Monte Serra estate, on a clear evening you can see Etna's main crater — Europe's largest active volcano at 3,329m — steaming to the north-west. You're standing on its lava, the vines grow in it, the wines taste like it, the palmento was built from it, the 300-year-old stocks survived in it. Etna has erupted 200+ times in recorded history, including 2021, 2022, and 2023 — it will erupt again. The Etna DOC exists in perpetual geological negotiation with an active volcano, making this terroir irreplaceable: no other wine region on Earth is actively being created in real time. Ask your guide if you can stay a few minutes at the summit before leaving — this is a free moment beyond the estate tour you're already on.

   Backup: If cloud covers the summit, the view from the estate terrace toward the Ionian Sea (visible on clear days) is equally affecting — you're standing between the volcano and the Mediterranean that Phoenicians sailed when planting the first vines here.

   Log Memory

Insider tips

• Open Tuesday-Sunday (closed Mondays); book via phone or email

• Ask to see the ancient volcanic cone of Monte Serra planted with vines

• Benanti produces Italy's first traditional method sparkling from Carricante

• The historical Palmento has been converted to an art gallery