Your Tuscan journey starts at the best enoteca in Florence, directly opposite Palazzo Pitti. Edoardo, Manuele, and Zeno opened this place in 2008 with a radical philosophy: no water served. Only wine. They have 3,000+ labels in the cellar, including bottles from the '50s, '60s, and '70s. When you ask 'what should I drink?' they don't reach for the famous names. They pour something from a tiny family winery in Lamole you've never heard of—and it changes your understanding of what Chianti can be.
What to do there
4 things to do
The 6-seat counter faces the Enomatic machines and the action.
Enter and walk past the tables to the wooden counter. Sit on the left side if available—you'll see the owners working the Enomatic machines. If the counter is full, the small table by the window overlooks Piazza Pitti and Palazzo Pitti.
Ask for a recommendation instead of reading the list.
Say: 'I'm starting a week in Tuscany. What should my first glass be?' They'll ask what you like, then pour something unexpected. The Enomatic machines let them offer 50+ wines by the glass, including rare producers. Trust them—they know wines you won't find anywhere else.
The tiny sub-zone of Chianti Classico that the owners are obsessed with.
Ask specifically about wines from Lamole—it's a high-altitude (600m) micro-zone within Chianti Classico. The owners have deep relationships with family producers here. The wines have more acidity and elegance than typical Chianti. This is insider knowledge most tourists never hear.
Buy wine here to drink at sunset 15 minutes uphill.
Before leaving, buy a half-bottle of Chianti Classico (€15-25) to take to Piazzale Michelangelo. Ask them for a recommendation that travels well uncorked for an hour. They'll give you a paper bag. It's a 15-minute walk uphill through Boboli Gardens area to the piazzale.
