British Pullman to Balfour Winery

The Audrey carriage was bombed at Victoria in 1940 and repaired. In 1953, it carried the Queen and Prince Philip to review the Royal Fleet. Cygnus was redesigned by Wes Anderson in 2021 with swan-shaped champagne coolers. Balfour Winery exists because Leslie Balfour-Lynn planted five acres in 2002 on a bet: 'If we can't sell it, we'll drink it.' The 2004 Brut Rosé became the first English wine to win a trophy at the International Wine Challenge, flew BA First Class, and poured at the 2012 Olympics. Oz Clarke — who won the last World Wine Tasting Championship in 1982 — hosts the journey.

What to do there

5 things to do

1. 1 Find Your Named Seat on the Train That Carried the Queen History · Price: very high

   Where: London Victoria Station, Platform 2. Check in at the Belmond reception desk next to Platform 2 at least 20 minutes before departure (~09:10 for a ~09:30 train). Smart casual is the minimum — you genuinely cannot be overdressed here.

   What: These carriages are not replicas. The Art Deco carriage you're boarding is the same Pullman stock that ran on the Golden Arrow — the all-first-class London–Paris express that launched in 1929 with its own cocktail bar, the Trianon, modelled on a Pall Mall club. The carriage Audrey, built in 1932, was bombed at this very station in 1940, repaired, and then in 1953 carried Queen Elizabeth II, the Queen Mother, and Prince Philip to review the Royal Fleet. You're sitting in a chair that's been on the right side of history for almost a century.

   How: When you board, find your assigned carriage and table. Check whether you're in Cygnus — the carriage filmmaker Wes Anderson completely redesigned in 2021 with pastel-pink ceilings, swan-shaped champagne coolers, and wave motifs carved into the original marquetry woodwork. If you are, you're dining inside what amounts to a living film set. As the train pulls out, a liveried steward arrives with your Bellini — Prosecco with seasonal fruit purée, served on white linen at a table set with bespoke Art Deco china.

   Backup: If your carriage isn't Cygnus or Audrey, every carriage has its own character and story — ask your steward which one you're in and what it's known for.

   Log Memory
2. 2 Taste the Wine That Ended England's Sparkling Wine Inferiority Complex Wine · Price: very high

   Where: Balfour Winery tasting room 'The View' — a two-storey glass building with a panoramic balcony looking across Nannette's Vineyard toward the Tudor manor house built in 1503. The winery is reached by private coach from Staplehurst, about 3 miles south-west.

   What: In 2002, Leslie Balfour-Lynn told her husband Richard: let's plant five acres and make a sparkling rosé as good as Billecart-Salmon. Their attitude was 'if we can't sell it, we'll drink it.' Five years later, the 2004 Balfour Brut Rosé won Gold and the Trophy at the International Wine Challenge — the FIRST time any English wine had ever won a trophy in that competition. It then became the first English sparkling wine served in British Airways First Class worldwide and the only English wine at the London 2012 Olympics. The wine that started this: 51% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier from a single vineyard — Oast House Meadow — on Wealden clay over Tunbridge Wells sand, made without malolactic fermentation to preserve its fierce natural freshness.

   How: When Oz Clarke leads the tutored tasting, ask him to open with the Brut Rosé and specifically ask about the no-malolactic fermentation decision — it's what gives the wine that wild strawberry and blood orange sharpness that makes it taste unlike anything from Champagne. Stand on the balcony with your glass pointing toward the vines — that specific vineyard below you is what's in the glass.

   Backup: If Oz isn't pouring the Brut Rosé first, ask for it. The winery also produces still wines; the sparkling range is the story.

   Log Memory
3. 3 Walk the Vineyard Where the Tudor Manor Has Watched 500 Years of History Adventure · Free

   Where: Hush Heath Estate grounds, Staplehurst — ask for the designated self-guided routes through the vineyards, apple orchards, wildflower meadows and ancient oak woodland. A map is available from the tasting room.

   What: The Tudor manor at the heart of this estate was built in 1503 — 11 years after Columbus reached the Americas. It watched the English Civil War, the World Wars, the decline of British agriculture and the rise of English wine. The Balfour-Lynns bought this land in 2000 when it was still just orchards and fields. Those apple trees you'll see growing Cox's Orange Pippin and Bramley Seedling beside the vines? They're still here because wild flowers are planted among them to attract natural predators, replacing pesticides. In spring and summer the meadows erupt in colour. This is what the English countryside looked like before industrial farming stripped it clean.

   How: Walk to Oast House Meadow — this is the single vineyard where all Balfour Brut Rosé grapes are grown. Stand in it and look back toward the manor house. The Wealden clay under your feet, thick and sticky after rain, is what gives the wine its dense structure and vibrant acidity — the same mechanism that makes French Champagne great, just with different soil chemistry. Then walk to the far edge of the estate and find the ancient oaks; some of these trees were saplings when the manor was built.

   Backup: If weather is poor, the tasting room balcony gives the same panoramic view over the vineyard — ask staff to point out Oast House Meadow from above.

   Log Memory
4. 4 Ask Oz Clarke the Question That Gets You the Real Answer Wine · Price: very high · Optional

   Where: During Oz Clarke's tutored tasting at Balfour Winery — he leads this for all Belmond British Pullman guests.

   What: Before wine consumed his life in 1984, Oz Clarke OBE was a full-time West End actor — he appeared alongside Michael Crawford in Billy at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane, performed in Evita, toured with the Royal Shakespeare Company. In 1982, while still acting, he won the last World Wine Tasting Championship ever held (the competition was discontinued after — it was never run again). He is genuinely one of the half-dozen people alive who rewrote how Britain thinks about wine. His 2009 Bordeaux book won the Louis Roederer International Wine Writers Award. He got his OBE in 2020. The reason he's passionate about English wine specifically is because he watched it transform from a joke into a serious rival to Champagne within a single generation.

   How: During the tasting, ask him: 'When did you first taste an English sparkling wine that genuinely surprised you?' or 'Do you think Kent will ever have its own appellation the way Champagne does?' These are not tourist questions — they're the kind he'll lean in for. He has strong opinions about Taittinger's investment here (they built a 23-metre-deep chalk cellar near Chilham specifically because Kent's chalk is an extension of the Champagne basin). Let him go.

   Backup: If Oz isn't personally leading the tasting on your date, the winery's own expert guides are deeply knowledgeable — ask them the same question about when they knew English sparkling wine had truly arrived.

   Log Memory
5. 5 Watch Kent Go Dark Through the Window While the Sommelier Pours Kent Lamb Adventure · Price: very high

   Where: Back on the British Pullman, your original table — the return journey from Staplehurst to London Victoria.

   What: This is where the whole day clicks into place. You reboard to a sparkling wine reception, and then a four-course dinner begins: Cornish hake giving way to rump of Kent lamb (the animal grazed in the same county as the vines you walked through this morning), a seasonal cheese course, glazed lemon tart, coffee, petit fours. A half-bottle of wine per person, chosen by the sommelier to match the courses. Outside the windows, Kent goes from golden dusk to dark countryside to the orange glow of London suburbs — a 90-minute cinematic slide that nobody plans but everyone remembers. The tablecloth is still perfectly white. The lamp is still Art Deco. You are moving through a century in reverse.

   How: Don't rush it. The dinner is three hours back to Victoria. Order the cheese course and ask the steward if they can open something interesting — they have discretion. When the train slows through the outer London suburbs, look for the moment you cross from countryside to city — there's a particular stretch through Brixton where the train tilts slightly and the whole London skyline appears. It's over in 30 seconds and nobody warns you.

   Backup: If the lamb isn't on the menu that evening (menus are seasonal), the local sourcing policy means whatever protein is served comes from within the British Isles — ask your steward the provenance. The story is always there.

   Log Memory

Insider tips

• Departs London Victoria station

• Art Deco carriages from 1920s

• Tour hosted by wine expert Oz Clarke

• Four-course dinner on return journey