Cortese
Gavi's Quiet Star
Cortese is grown in Gavi, Colli Tortonesi and Monferrato.
- Tastes of
- green apple, lemon, white flowers and almond
- Goes with
- white truffles, grilled fish and seafood pasta
The story
Cortese is the grape behind Gavi (Piedmont). For decades, Gavi was Italy's trendy white—crisp, mineral, fashionable. Then it became over-produced and boring. Now, serious producers are reviving it.
Insider story
Gavi was Italy's 'it' white in the 1980s-90s. Restaurants poured it by the glass. Exports boomed. Prices rose.
But success brought over-production. Yields hit 100+ hL/ha. The wine became thin and boring. Critics dismissed Gavi as 'over-hyped.'
Now, serious producers are fighting back. Low yields, old vines, single vineyards. The best Gavi is mineral, structured, age-worthy (5-10 years). It's Gavi's renaissance.
But most Gavi is still mediocre. You have to know the producer.
Technical deep dive
Cortese has high acidity (6-7 g/L), citrus and almond aromatics, and a mineral finish. Alcohol: 12-13% ABV.
Limestone soils produce mineral, structured Gavi. Clay soils produce softer, fruitier styles.
Gavi di Gavi (from the village of Gavi) is the top designation. Single-vineyard Gavi is even better.
Industry secrets
La Scolca 'Black Label' is Gavi's cult wine. $40-80 bottles age 10-15 years. It's Italy's answer to Chablis. But most consumers buy $12 Gavi and wonder what the fuss is about.
For collectors
Investment grade C+
- Auction records
- La Scolca Black Label ($80)
- Blue-chip producers
-
- La Scolca
- Villa Sparina
- Broglia
- Value picks
- Gavi di Gavi ($15-30)
- Price trend
- Stable. La Scolca Black Label ages 10-15 years.
- Collector’s tip
- La Scolca Black Label is Gavi's cult wine—ages like Chablis. Otherwise drink young.