Kadarka
Bull's Blood Hero
Kadarka is grown in Eger, Szekszárd and Villány.
1other name
- Tastes of
- red cherry, raspberry, pepper and spice
- Goes with
- hungarian goulash, stuffed peppers and pörkölt
- Also called
- Gamza
The story
Kadarka is the traditional grape of Egri Bikavér (Bull's Blood of Eger)—Hungary's most famous red blend. Legend says Hungarian soldiers drank it before defeating the Ottomans in 1552. The wine ran down their chins like blood, terrifying the enemy.
Insider story
The Bull's Blood legend is probably fiction, but it sells wine. Egri Bikavér was Hungary's flagship red throughout the Communist era—cheap, reliable, and exported globally.
But here's the scandal: modern Bull's Blood barely contains Kadarka. Under Communism, producers replaced finicky Kadarka with easier grapes—Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch), Cabernet, Merlot. By 1990, Kadarka had nearly disappeared from Eger.
Purists are fighting back. Producers like Thummerer, St. Andrea, and Bolyki are replanting Kadarka and making traditional-style Bull's Blood. These wines taste nothing like the Communist-era versions—they're spicy, light, and elegant rather than dark and heavy.
Kadarka also grows in Serbia (where it's called Gamza) and Romania. Serbia's Župa region makes excellent Kadarka, though it's rarely exported.
Technical deep dive
Kadarka is light-colored and thin-skinned, producing pale, aromatic wines with bright acidity (6-7 g/L), light tannins (1,000-1,500 mg/L), and spicy/peppery character.
The grape is notoriously difficult. It's susceptible to rot (thin skins), yields are inconsistent, and it requires specific sites (warm, well-drained slopes). Communist-era cooperatives replaced it with easier varieties.
Flavor profile: cherry, raspberry, white pepper, dried herbs. The wine is closer to Pinot Noir than Cabernet—elegant rather than powerful.
Traditional Bull's Blood was Kadarka-dominant (40-60%). Modern Bull's Blood is often only 10-20% Kadarka, with Kékfrankos and international varieties dominating. Check producer philosophy before buying.
Aging: Kadarka is best drunk young (3-7 years). It lacks the tannin and structure for long aging.
Industry secrets
Modern Bull's Blood is often Kadarka in name only. The term 'Egri Bikavér' has minimum blend requirements but they're loose. Know your producer—traditionalists use significant Kadarka, modernists minimize it.
Pure Kadarka is rare and worth seeking. Thummerer and Bock make varietal examples that showcase the grape's spicy, elegant character.
Serbian Kadarka (Gamza) is often better value than Hungarian. Producers like Ivanović and Vinarija Aleksandrović make excellent bottles for $15-25.
For collectors
Investment grade C
- Auction records
- Thummerer Kadarka ($40), Bock Kadarka ($35)
- Blue-chip producers
-
- Thummerer
- St. Andrea
- Bock
- Bolyki
- Kovács Nimród
- Value picks
- Serbian Kadarka/Gamza ($10-20), Entry-level Egri Bikavér ($12-18)
- Price trend
- Stable. Rising interest in authentic Kadarka among sommeliers.
- Collector’s tip
- Drink young (3-7 years). Look for high-Kadarka blends from traditionalist producers. Pure Kadarka is elegant and food-friendly.