Syrah

The Story

In the 1950s, Penfolds winemaker Max Schubert was laughed at for making Grange—a wine modeled after Bordeaux but using Shiraz. Penfolds ordered him to stop. He kept making it in secret. Today, Grange is Australia's most iconic wine, selling for $800+ per bottle.

Insider Story

Max Schubert's Grange story is insane. He visited Bordeaux in 1950, tasted First Growths, and thought, 'I can do this with Shiraz.' He returned to Australia and made the 1951 Grange using new American oak (French oak was too expensive) and multi-region blending (Barossa + Clare + McLaren Vale). Penfolds management tasted it and hated it—too tannic, too oaky, 'smells like a saddle shop.' They ordered him to stop production.

Schubert kept making Grange in secret from 1957-1960, hiding barrels in obscure corners of the winery. In 1960, the early vintages had aged and management realized they'd made a mistake. Grange was reinstated. The 'hidden vintages' (1957-1959) are the rarest and most valuable—bottles sell for $10K-50K+.

But here's the scandal: Grange is a multi-region, multi-vineyard blend. It's the opposite of Burgundy's 'single vineyard' philosophy. Purists say it's industrial wine. Schubert's response? 'I'm making the best wine I can, not following French rules.' He was right—Grange is proof that great wine doesn't need a single vineyard.

Technical Deep Dive

Syrah (France) vs. Shiraz (Australia) is the same grape, different terroir. Northern Rhône Syrah (Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie) is grown on granite slopes, yields are tiny (25-35 hL/ha), and wines are structured, peppery, and age-worthy. Australian Shiraz (Barossa, McLaren Vale) is grown on warmer sites, yields are higher (40-60 hL/ha), and wines are riper, fruitier, and higher alcohol (14.5-16% ABV vs. 12.5-13.5% in France).

Rotundone is the key compound. It's the same molecule in black pepper, and Syrah/Shiraz is loaded with it. Cool-climate Syrah (Northern Rhône, cool-climate Australia) has more rotundone = more pepper. Warm-climate Shiraz has less rotundone = more fruit.

Winemaking: Northern Rhône uses whole-cluster fermentation (stems add structure and spice). Australia typically destems. Both use oak (French in Rhône, American in Australia). American oak adds sweet vanilla and coconut; French oak adds savory spice.

Co-fermentation: Côte-Rôtie allows up to 20% Viognier (white grape) to be co-fermented with Syrah. It stabilizes color and adds floral aromatics. Some producers use it; others don't. It's optional.

Industry Secrets

Grange's secret: it's a multi-region blend. Penfolds sources Shiraz from Barossa, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, and more. The exact blend changes every vintage. Penfolds won't disclose percentages. This flexibility is why Grange is consistent—bad vintage in Barossa? Use more McLaren Vale. It's brilliant blending, but purists hate it.

Northern Rhône secret: many Hermitage wines are declassified Hermitage La Chapelle (Jaboulet) or Hermitage (Chave). If the wine doesn't meet the estate's standards, it's sold off in bulk to négociants. You can find 'secret Chave' in generic Hermitage bottlings—if you know the négociant.

Australian secret: old-vine Shiraz (80-100+ years) is insanely valuable but hard to verify. Some producers claim 'old vine' for 40-year vines. Real old-vine Barossa Shiraz (Henschke Hill of Grace, Rockford Basket Press) comes from pre-phylloxera vines planted in the 1860s-1890s. These vines are priceless.

More red grapes

• Tannat
• Tavkveri
• Tazzelenghe
• Tempranillo
• Teran