Freisa d'Asti

History

Indigenous Piedmontese grape dating to Middle Ages. First documented 16th century in customs tariffs as 'frese' - a fine wine taxed at twice ordinary wine. Most planted variety in Torino province late 19th century due to mildew resistance. DOC established 1972. Plantings collapsed from 7,500ha (1970s) to ~800ha (2018) due to Nebbiolo/Barbera/Dolcetto competition and use in low-quality blends. DNA studies revealed Freisa is Nebbiolo's closest relative - likely its parent. Now experiencing renaissance with top producers like GD Vajra (since 1980) championing the variety.

At a glance

Climate

Continental Monferrato hills; Asti province hilly terrain; 118 municipalities; good mildew resistance historically; south-facing slopes; moderate continental climate; both Langhe and Monferrato zones

Signature wines

GD Vajra Langhe Freisa 'Kyè' (benchmark since 1990, 'Who is it?' in dialect, structured, age-worthy); Vietti Langhe Freisa (vivace to still styles); Giuseppe Mascarello; Giacomo Fenocchio; Cascina Gilli; La Borgarella

What sets it apart

Likely Nebbiolo's parent (DNA parent-offspring relationship); 16th century 'frese' taxed twice ordinary wine; collapsed from 7,500ha to ~800ha (1970s-2018); GD Vajra's Aldo Vajra pioneered renaissance 1980; 'Kyè' means 'Who is it?' in Piedmontese; versatile: still/frizzante/spumante, dry/sweet; fresh peppery nose deceives - mouth reveals substantial tannins; DOC 1972; mildew-resistant variety dominated pre-phylloxera Torino

• ~170ha DOC zone (1,000ha total Freisa Italy)
• DOC 1972
• 118 municipalities
• parent-offspring relationship with Nebbiolo (likely Nebbiolo's parent per Ian D'Agata DNA studies)
• 16th century customs tariffs listed 'frese' at twice ordinary wine price
• 7,500ha in 1970s collapsed to ~800ha by 2018
• most planted grape in Torino province late 1800s
• mildew-resistant variety