Battambang & Beyond
Cambodia's second city offers the famous bamboo train, bat exodus caves, and...
Cambodia's second city offers the famous bamboo train, bat exodus caves, and a world-class circus. Plus remote temples for the adventurous.
A Wine Memories curated trail · winememories.fi
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Curated by Wine Memories
- 1⛰️
Bamboo Train Wine
A bamboo platform on wheels, powered by a small motor. When two trains meet, one disassembles. Rickety, absurd, and unforgettable.
adventure $ - 2⛰️
Phnom Sampeau Bat Exodus
At dusk, millions of bats erupt from the limestone caves in an endless river of wings. Find a spot on the hillside, open your wine, and watch the sky darken with beating wings for over 30 minutes. It's like a wildlife documentary you're living inside.
adventure $ - 3⛰️
Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau
A sobering descent into Cambodia's darkest history. The Khmer Rouge used these caves as execution sites. Glass cases hold remains, and the silence speaks. Afterwards, wine is not celebration - it's reflection.
adventure $ - 4⛰️
Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus
The original campus of Cambodia's famous circus school. Watch future stars train and perform at the source. Less touristy than Siem Reap, more intimate, and you might be the only foreigner in the audience.
adventure $ - 5⛰️
Preah Vihear Temple
A mountain-top temple on the Thai border that caused an armed conflict. Centuries old, dramatically perched, and visited by almost no tourists. The journey is long but the reward is an empty UNESCO wonder.
adventure $$
Plan the trip
Getting there and around
- Car required
- No
- Nearest airport
- Siem Reap (REP) - 3 hours by bus. Or Phnom Penh (PNH) - 5-6 hours.
- Drinking and driving
- Town is small and walkable. Tuk-tuks for bat caves if you're drinking during sunset wine.
- Without a car
- Buses from Siem Reap (3 hrs, $5-8) or PP (5-6 hrs, $8-12). Famous boat from Siem Reap runs high season only (wet season Sept-March). Tuk-tuks for local trips ($5-15/half-day).
Where to stay
- Base yourself in
- Battambang town center (riverside)
- Why there
- Everything walkable - restaurants, bars, Phare circus. Colonial architecture charm.
- Booking tip
- Walk-in OK. Phare show nights (Mon/Thurs/Sat) see higher occupancy - book day before.
- Nightly range
- $8-80/night
- Peak season
- Dec-Feb busier with temple circuit tourists. Boat from Siem Reap runs September-March only.
Recommended stays
- Shoestring
- Here Be Dragons ($6-10/dorm, social, rooftop) or Pomme Hostel ($8-12/dorm, modern)
- Wanderer
- Bambu Hotel ($35-50, pool, quiet) or Maisons Wat Kor ($45-60, heritage villas)
- Flashpacker
- Battambang Resort ($70-100, pool, gardens) or Sangker Villa ($60-90, boutique)
What it costs
- Includes
- Accommodation, food, transport, circus ticket, entrance fees
- Wine prices
- Limited wine selection - one of the least wine-friendly spots in Cambodia. Buy in Siem Reap or PP before arriving. Jaan Bai restaurant has some wine. Otherwise, stick to Angkor beer.
- Meals
- Street food $1-3, riverside restaurants $5-12, nice dinner $15-25
- Per person
- Dirtbag: $25-40/day | Wanderer: $45-70/day | Flashpacker: $80-120/day
- Ways to spend less
-
- Phare tickets are worth every dollar - don't skip
- Combine bamboo train + bat caves in one tuk-tuk trip ($8-12 total)
- Take the boat from Siem Reap if running (Sept-March) - it's an experience
- Riverside restaurants are tourist-priced but not too bad ($8-15)
Booking and timing
- Lead time
- Phare circus: book 1-2 days ahead, especially high season. Everything else walk-in.
- Visas
- Standard Cambodia: e-Visa $36 or VOA $30.
- Walk-ins accepted
- Yes
- Closed days
- Phare shows Mon/Thurs/Sat only (check current schedule). Other attractions daily.
- Best time of day
- Bamboo train: morning. Killing Caves: morning. Bat exodus: arrive 4:30 PM.
- Rainy season
- May-October has afternoon storms. Bat exodus still happens but can be obscured by clouds. Boat from Siem Reap only runs wet season (September-March).
Where to eat
- Wine bars
-
- Jaan Bai - best wine option in town (limited but exists)
- Lonely Tree Cafe - basic wines, good for sunset drinks
- Sangker Villa hotel bar - boutique hotel option
- Street food
-
- Central market morning - noodles, rice dishes, $1-2
- Riverside evening stalls - BBQ, fried snacks, $1-3
- Night market near Phare circus - local food, $2-4
- Restaurants
-
- Jaan Bai - social enterprise, creative Khmer, wine available, $8-15
- Lonely Tree Cafe - riverside, sunset drinks, Western/Khmer, $6-12
- Kinyei - social enterprise, cooking classes too, $5-10
If your time is short
- Do not miss
-
- Phare circus (the highlight)
- Bat exodus at sunset
- If you only have one day
- Morning bamboo train -> Afternoon Killing Caves -> 4:30 PM bat exodus -> 7 PM Phare circus
- If it rains
- Phare circus still runs. Colonial architecture walking tour of town.
- Skip if time is short
-
- Preah Vihear (too far for short trips)
- Killing Caves if you've done Phnom Penh memorials
Mistakes to avoid
-
- Don't skip booking Phare circus - it sells out, especially high season
- Don't arrive late for bat exodus - position by 4:30 PM
- Don't expect the old bamboo train - the original closed, this is a recreation
- Don't drive to Preah Vihear in a day trip - it's exhausting. Stay overnight if going.
- Don't expect wine bars - this is beer country. Bring your own.
Worth stopping for
-
- Bat exodus: Wide angle video is better than photos. Tripod helps.
- Phare circus: No flash photography. Check if photos allowed that show.
- Bamboo train: Action shots of approaching train on tracks
- Colonial buildings: Morning light on French architecture downtown