Via Domitia
The Via Domitia (118 BC) was Rome's first road in Gaul, connecting Italy to Spain through some of the finest wine country on Earth.
Chapter 2 of Roman Wine Odyssey · France
The stops
- Tour · Price: moderate Nîmes Amphitheater & Wine The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world. Built around 70 AD, it still hosts events today. Watch gladiator reenactments, then explore the wine bars in the medieval center serving excellent Costières de Nîmes.
- Tour · Price: low Maison Carrée & Ancient Nîmes The most perfectly preserved Roman temple in existence. Built around 2 AD, it inspired Thomas Jefferson's design for the Virginia State Capitol. Across the square is Norman Foster's modern Carré d'Art museum.
- Adventure · Price: moderate Pont du Gard Vineyard Picnic UNESCO World Heritage aqueduct towering 49 meters high. Built around 50 AD without mortar, it carried water to Nîmes. Pack a picnic with local rosé and find a spot along the riverbank with the aqueduct as your backdrop.
- Tasting · Price: high Châteauneuf-du-Pape The "New Castle of the Pope" sits on land Romans first planted. The famous galets roulés (rounded stones) reflect heat onto vines at night. Grenache-dominant blends are rich, powerful, and age magnificently.
- Tour · Price: moderate Orange Roman Theatre The best-preserved Roman theatre in Europe, with its massive stage wall still intact at 37 meters high. Louis XIV called it "the finest wall in my kingdom." Now hosts the famous Chorégies d'Orange opera festival.
- Tasting · Price: moderate Gigondas & Vacqueyras Mountain villages in the Dentelles de Montmirail producing wines that rival Châteauneuf at half the price. Gigondas is powerful and spicy; Vacqueyras is earthier and more approachable. Both are Grenache-dominant.
- Tour · Price: moderate Arles Arena & Van Gogh Trail Roman arena slightly smaller than Nîmes but equally well-preserved. Van Gogh painted here obsessively. Explore the Roman and artistic heritage, then sample wines at bistros that inspired his Café Terrace at Night.
- Adventure · Price: high Les Baux-de-Provence Dramatic fortress village carved into limestone cliffs. Romans quarried the stone here. The Carrières de Lumières — an immersive art show in the quarries — is breathtaking. Les Baux AOC produces excellent wines from Roman terroir.
- Tour · Price: moderate Narbonne - Capital of Gallia Narbonensis Capital of Rome's first province in Gaul (118 BC). The underground Via Domitia remains visible. The unfinished Gothic cathedral looms over Roman foundations. Now a gateway to Corbières and La Clape wines.
- Tasting · Price: moderate Languedoc Coastal Wineries - La Clape La Clape massif rises dramatically from the Mediterranean. Once an island, now connected to the mainland, its unique terroir produces white wines of startling quality. Many estates sit on Roman ruins.
The story
This adventure follows the ancient highway past the world's best-preserved Roman arena, the perfect temple, the towering aqueduct, and the legendary vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Plan the trip
Insider tip The Via Domitia still exists beneath Narbonne's main square. Stand on the ancient stones that Roman legions marched over 2,000 years ago. Then toast them with Châteauneuf-du-Pape — the wine they could only dream of.
Getting there and around
- Car required
- Yes
- Parking
- Paid parking in cities. Free at most wineries. Historic centers often pedestrianized.
- Nearest airport
- Marseille (MRS), Montpellier (MPL), or Nîmes (FNI)
- Drinking and driving
- France takes drink-driving seriously. Designate driver or book private tours.
- Other airports
-
- Lyon (LYS) if combining with Rhône Corridor
- Without a car
- TGV connects major cities. Car essential for wine routes.
Where to stay
- Base yourself in
- Nîmes (2 nights), then move to Arles (2 nights), then Narbonne
- Why there
- Each base has excellent restaurants and covers nearby regions.
- Booking tip
- Summer festivals (Avignon, Arles photo) book up months ahead.
- Nightly range
- €80-250
Recommended stays
- Budget
- Gîtes de France for countryside character
- Luxury
- Château des Fines Roches (Châteauneuf), L'Oustau de Baumanière (Les Baux)
- Mid-range
- Boutique hotels in historic centers
- Vineyard stays
- Domaine stays in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
What it costs
- Includes
- Accommodation, tastings, meals, transport, site entry
- Meals
- €30-60 per day
- Per person
- €800-1,500
- Ways to spend less
-
- Picnic lunches at archaeological sites — very French
- Many Roman sites free or cheap entry
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape is expensive — Gigondas equally good at half price
- Southern Rhône wines excellent value compared to Burgundy
- Tasting fees
- €10-30 per domaine
Booking and timing
- Lead time
- 2-4 weeks for prestige domaines
- Closed days
- Many closed Sundays. Some August closures for holidays.
- Peak season
- July-August crowded and hot. June and September ideal.
- Best time of day
- Morning for sites (light, fewer crowds), afternoon for tastings.
- Group size
- Most domaines prefer small groups (2-6)
Where to eat
- Lunch
-
- Pont du Gard: Bring a picnic — best dining is informal
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape: La Mère Germaine
- Les Baux: Mas de l'Oulivie for views
- Dinner
-
- Nîmes: Alexandre (2 Michelin stars)
- Arles: L'Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel
- Narbonne: La Table Saint-Crescent
- Winery restaurants
-
- Château de Beaucastel — appointment required
- Mas de la Dame (Les Baux) — excellent terrace
If your time is short
- If you only have one day
- If it rains
- Nîmes arena has covered sections. Museums excellent.
- Skip if time is short
Mistakes to avoid
-
- Don't underestimate Provençal summer heat — sites bake in July
- Don't skip Châteauneuf-du-Pape's stone terroir walk
- Don't rush Pont du Gard — bring wine and stay for hours
- Don't drive after Châteauneuf tastings — those big Grenaches hit hard
- Don't miss the Via Domitia beneath Narbonne — it's the actual Roman road
Worth stopping for
-
- Nîmes arena at blue hour with dramatic lighting
- Pont du Gard reflected in the Gardon River
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape galets roulés (rounded stones) close-up
- Les Baux fortress at sunset
- Arles' Café Terrace at Night location (Van Gogh's painting)