Pommery: The Widow's Art Cathedral

What to do there

4 things to do

1. 1

   Count the 116 Steps

   adventure Price: moderate

   116 stone steps spiral 30 meters down into the earth at the main entrance (5 Place du Général Gouraud, Reims) — the height of a 10-story building descending into Louise Pommery's underground empire. The widow built this dramatic staircase to connect 18km of galleries. Book at pommery.com with tours every 30 minutes (€30 standard, €60 prestige) and start counting at the top for the full effect.

   BACKUP: There's an elevator if stairs are difficult - but you lose the dramatic descent.

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2. 2

   Find the Widow's Art Collection

   adventure Free

   Since 2002, Pommery has commissioned contemporary artists to create permanent installations throughout the cellars — a light work on the great staircase by Pablo Valbuena, massive chalk carvings, modern art in 2000-year-old Roman galleries. The art is NOT subtle in these 10°C, 90% humidity caves. Ask your guide: "Which installation is the most controversial?" Each artist created work specifically for this unique underground environment.

   BACKUP: Exterior sculptures visible without tour.

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3. 3

   Discover the Grande Foudre

   history Free

   A foudre holding 750 hectolitres — about 100,000 bottles — sits in the deepest gallery as one of the largest wine barrels ever made. It was built in 1903, thirteen years after Louise Pommery died, and carved by Émile Gallé. Walk completely around it (the scale is impossible to photograph) and ask: "Is this still used?" The answer reveals champagne's evolution from barrels to bottles.

   BACKUP: If closed for restoration, ask to see the "cathedral gallery" instead.

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4. 4

   Toast Louise Pommery

   wine Price: moderate

   Pommery Brut Royal represents the house style Louise invented — she was the FIRST to create "brut" (very dry) champagne when all others were sweet like dessert wine. In the tasting salon, ask: "Why did Louise Pommery create dry champagne?" She took the risk for the British market, and every "brut" champagne today follows her revolutionary lead. Raise your glass to the widow who changed everything.

   BACKUP: Book €60 prestige tour for Cuvée Louise.

   Log Memory