Frappato

The story

While Nero d'Avola gets all the attention, Frappato is Sicily's secret weapon—a light, aromatic red that tastes like strawberries and Mediterranean herbs. It's the Beaujolais of Italy, but with a volcanic soul.

Insider story

Frappato almost disappeared. By the 1980s, only a handful of producers in the Vittoria region still grew it. Sicilians wanted big, dark reds—Frappato was considered too 'feminine' and light.

Arianna Occhipinti changed everything. In 2004, this 22-year-old niece of legendary producer Giusto Occhipinti started her own winery with a radical vision: natural wines, no sulfur, amphora aging. Her SP68 Frappato became a cult hit in New York's natural wine bars. Sommeliers called it 'liquid joy.' Suddenly, Frappato was fashionable.

The irony: Frappato was always blended with Nero d'Avola in Cerasuolo di Vittoria (Sicily's only DOCG). The blend is brilliant—Nero provides structure, Frappato adds aromatics and freshness. But Arianna proved Frappato could stand alone.

But there's a catch: Frappato is delicate and oxidizes quickly. Poorly made examples taste like vinegar. Quality varies wildly. Stick to known producers.

Technical deep dive

Frappato produces pale, translucent wine—closer to Pinot Noir than Nero d'Avola. Thin skins mean low tannins (800-1,200 mg/L) and light color. High acidity (6-7 g/L) gives freshness.

The grape is aromatic, producing strawberry, cherry, grape, and fresh herb notes. Some detect a distinctive 'grapey' quality—like Concord grape juice meets fresh strawberries.

Fermentation: most producers use whole-cluster fermentation (stems add spice and structure). Extended skin contact is risky—too much extraction and Frappato turns bitter. Cold maceration (3-5 days) preserves fruit.

Oak is controversial. Traditional producers use large, neutral casks. Natural wine producers prefer amphora or concrete. New oak overwhelms Frappato's delicate flavors.

Serving temperature matters: Frappato should be slightly chilled (14-16°C). Too warm and it tastes flabby.

Industry secrets

Frappato's secret: it's one of Italy's best summer reds. Chill it slightly and serve with grilled fish or vegetable antipasti. It bridges the gap between white and red wine.

The natural wine connection is real—Frappato attracts winemakers who reject intervention. But 'natural' doesn't always mean 'good.' Some examples are funky, oxidized disasters. Stick to Occhipinti, COS, and Arianna Occhipinti.

Value tip: Cerasuolo di Vittoria ($15-30) offers complexity at accessible prices. The Nero d'Avola blend adds depth without losing Frappato's charm.

For collectors

More red grapes

• Freisa
• Frontenac
• Frühburgunder
• Fumin
• Gaglioppo