Pecorino

The Story

Pecorino was extinct—or so everyone thought. In 1990, a few vines were discovered in abandoned vineyards. Revived and replanted, Pecorino became Italy's trendiest white in the 2010s. Its brisk acidity and herbal character won over sommeliers.

Insider Story

Pecorino's name has nothing to do with cheese—it comes from 'pecora' (sheep), who supposedly loved eating the grapes. The grape was planted in Abruzzo and Marche for centuries, then slowly abandoned.

By 1980, Pecorino was considered extinct. Then in 1990, nurseryman Guido Cocci Grifoni found a few surviving vines in an old vineyard. He propagated them, made wine, and demonstrated the grape's quality.

Word spread. Producers across Abruzzo and Marche planted Pecorino. By 2015, it was Italy's 'it' grape—featured on every hip wine list, praised by every natural wine enthusiast.

The hype was justified. Pecorino has genuine character: citrus, sage, almond, mineral. It's crisp without being thin, aromatic without being floral. Perfect for modern palates.

Now the danger is overproduction. Some producers overcrop for volume, making dilute, boring Pecorino. Quality varies wildly.

Technical Deep Dive

Pecorino produces whites with crisp acidity (6.5-7.5 g/L), citrus aromatics, and a distinctive herbal character. Alcohol reaches 13-14%—higher than most Italian whites.

The grape ripens early (late August/September), requiring vigilance to preserve acidity. Harvest timing is critical—a week late and the wine is flabby.

Flavor profile: citrus (lemon, grapefruit), green apple, sage, almond, white pepper. The sage/herbal note is Pecorino's signature.

Winemaking: stainless steel preserves freshness. Some producers use brief skin contact (6-12 hours) for texture. Oak is rare—it masks the grape's character.

The best Pecorino comes from high-altitude vineyards (400-700m) in Abruzzo and Marche. Altitude preserves acidity in the warm climate.

Industry Secrets

Pecorino pairs beautifully with Pecorino cheese—the shared name is coincidence, but the pairing works. The wine's acidity cuts the cheese's richness.

Offida DOCG (Marche) is the premium appellation. Look for it over generic 'Abruzzo' or 'Marche' labels.

The grape's early ripening makes it climate-change resistant. As Abruzzo warms, Pecorino may become increasingly important.

Value hack: excellent Pecorino costs $15-25. The hype has subsided, leaving quality at accessible prices.

More white grapes

• Pedro Ximénez
• Pepella
• Perruno
• Petit Courbu
• Petit Manseng