Viognier

The Story

By 1968, only 14 hectares of Viognier remained in the world—all in Condrieu (Northern Rhône). The grape was nearly extinct. Today, there are 16,000+ hectares globally. It's one of wine's greatest comeback stories.

Insider Story

Viognier was Condrieu's grape for centuries. But it's difficult—low-yielding, prone to disease, hard to ripen. By the 1960s, farmers had ripped out most Viognier for easier grapes. Only 14 hectares remained.

In the 1980s-90s, producers like Georges Vernay and Yves Cuilleron revived Viognier. They made rich, aromatic, age-worthy whites. Critics discovered them. 'This is France's greatest white wine!'

California and Australia planted Viognier in the 1990s-2000s. The grape thrived in warm climates. Today, there are 16,000+ hectares globally.

But here's the problem: most New World Viognier is over-ripe and flabby. The grape needs careful handling. Condrieu remains the benchmark.

Technical Deep Dive

Viognier has intense aromatics—apricot, peach, honeysuckle, violet. It's low in acidity (5-6 g/L) and high in alcohol (13.5-15% ABV).

The low acidity is dangerous. Over-ripe Viognier is flabby and cloying. The best producers harvest early to preserve freshness.

Co-fermentation: in Côte-Rôtie (Syrah region), up to 20% Viognier can be co-fermented with Syrah. It stabilizes color and adds floral aromatics. Some producers use it; others don't.

Oak: Condrieu uses new oak (30-50%) for richness. California often uses too much oak, masking Viognier's aromatics.

Industry Secrets

Condrieu is expensive ($50-150). But Viognier from Saint-Joseph (next door) is $25-50 and nearly as good. Same climate, same grape, lower prices. Nobody knows about it.

More white grapes

• Viorica
• Viosinho
• Vital
• Voskehat
• Vugava