Wine trail · Cambodia

Battambang & Beyond

1. Bamboo Train Wine 1 2. Phnom Sampeau Bat Exodus 2 3. Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau 3 4. Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus 4 5. Preah Vihear Temple 5 50 km 1. Bamboo Train Wine 1 2. Phnom Sampeau Bat Exodus 2 3. Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau 3 4. Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus 4 5. Preah Vihear Temple 5 100 km

Cambodia's second city offers the famous bamboo train, bat exodus caves, and a world-class circus.

3days

Moderateeffort

5stops

Chapter 3 of Southeast Asia Grand Journey · Cambodia

The stops

  1. Adventure · Price: low Bamboo Train Wine A bamboo platform on wheels, powered by a small motor. When two trains meet, one disassembles. Rickety, absurd, and unforgettable.
  2. Adventure · Price: low Phnom Sampeau Bat Exodus At dusk, millions of bats erupt from the limestone caves in an endless river of wings. Find a spot on the hillside, open your wine, and watch the sky darken with beating wings for over 30 minutes. It's like a wildlife documentary you're living inside.
  3. Adventure · Price: low Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau A sobering descent into Cambodia's darkest history. The Khmer Rouge used these caves as execution sites. Glass cases hold remains, and the silence speaks. Afterwards, wine is not celebration - it's reflection.
  4. Adventure · Price: low Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus The original campus of Cambodia's famous circus school. Watch future stars train and perform at the source. Less touristy than Siem Reap, more intimate, and you might be the only foreigner in the audience.
  5. Adventure · Price: moderate Preah Vihear Temple A mountain-top temple on the Thai border that caused an armed conflict. Centuries old, dramatically perched, and visited by almost no tourists. The journey is long but the reward is an empty UNESCO wonder.

The story

Plus remote temples for the adventurous.

Plan the trip

Getting there and around

Car required
No
Nearest airport
Siem Reap (REP) - 3 hours by bus. Or Phnom Penh (PNH) - 5-6 hours.
Drinking and driving
Town is small and walkable. Tuk-tuks for bat caves if you're drinking during sunset wine.
Without a car
Buses from Siem Reap (3 hrs, $5-8) or PP (5-6 hrs, $8-12). Famous boat from Siem Reap runs high season only (wet season Sept-March). Tuk-tuks for local trips ($5-15/half-day).

Where to stay

Base yourself in
Battambang town center (riverside)
Why there
Everything walkable - restaurants, bars, Phare circus. Colonial architecture charm.
Booking tip
Walk-in OK. Phare show nights (Mon/Thurs/Sat) see higher occupancy - book day before.
Nightly range
$8-80/night
Peak season
Dec-Feb busier with temple circuit tourists. Boat from Siem Reap runs September-March only.

Recommended stays

Shoestring
Here Be Dragons ($6-10/dorm, social, rooftop) or Pomme Hostel ($8-12/dorm, modern)
Wanderer
Bambu Hotel ($35-50, pool, quiet) or Maisons Wat Kor ($45-60, heritage villas)
Flashpacker
Battambang Resort ($70-100, pool, gardens) or Sangker Villa ($60-90, boutique)

What it costs

Includes
Accommodation, food, transport, circus ticket, entrance fees
Wine prices
Limited wine selection - one of the least wine-friendly spots in Cambodia. Buy in Siem Reap or PP before arriving. Jaan Bai restaurant has some wine. Otherwise, stick to Angkor beer.
Meals
Street food $1-3, riverside restaurants $5-12, nice dinner $15-25
Per person
Dirtbag: $25-40/day | Wanderer: $45-70/day | Flashpacker: $80-120/day
Ways to spend less
  • Phare tickets are worth every dollar - don't skip
  • Combine bamboo train + bat caves in one tuk-tuk trip ($8-12 total)
  • Take the boat from Siem Reap if running (Sept-March) - it's an experience
  • Riverside restaurants are tourist-priced but not too bad ($8-15)

Booking and timing

Lead time
Phare circus: book 1-2 days ahead, especially high season. Everything else walk-in.
Visas
Standard Cambodia: e-Visa $36 or VOA $30.
Walk-ins accepted
Yes
Closed days
Phare shows Mon/Thurs/Sat only (check current schedule). Other attractions daily.
Best time of day
Bamboo train: morning. Killing Caves: morning. Bat exodus: arrive 4:30 PM.
Rainy season
May-October has afternoon storms. Bat exodus still happens but can be obscured by clouds. Boat from Siem Reap only runs wet season (September-March).

Where to eat

Wine bars
  • Jaan Bai - best wine option in town (limited but exists)
  • Lonely Tree Cafe - basic wines, good for sunset drinks
  • Sangker Villa hotel bar - boutique hotel option
Street food
  • Central market morning - noodles, rice dishes, $1-2
  • Riverside evening stalls - BBQ, fried snacks, $1-3
  • Night market near Phare circus - local food, $2-4
Restaurants
  • Jaan Bai - social enterprise, creative Khmer, wine available, $8-15
  • Lonely Tree Cafe - riverside, sunset drinks, Western/Khmer, $6-12
  • Kinyei - social enterprise, cooking classes too, $5-10

If your time is short

Do not miss
  • Phare circus (the highlight)
  • Bat exodus at sunset
If you only have one day
Morning bamboo train -> Afternoon Killing Caves -> 4:30 PM bat exodus -> 7 PM Phare circus
If it rains
Phare circus still runs. Colonial architecture walking tour of town.
Skip if time is short
  • Preah Vihear (too far for short trips)
  • Killing Caves if you've done Phnom Penh memorials

Mistakes to avoid

  • Don't skip booking Phare circus - it sells out, especially high season
  • Don't arrive late for bat exodus - position by 4:30 PM
  • Don't expect the old bamboo train - the original closed, this is a recreation
  • Don't drive to Preah Vihear in a day trip - it's exhausting. Stay overnight if going.
  • Don't expect wine bars - this is beer country. Bring your own.

Worth stopping for

  • Bat exodus: Wide angle video is better than photos. Tripod helps.
  • Phare circus: No flash photography. Check if photos allowed that show.
  • Bamboo train: Action shots of approaching train on tracks
  • Colonial buildings: Morning light on French architecture downtown

More trails in this chapter