Sicilia Antiqua
Sicily was Greek before it was Roman. Mamertine wine from Messina was Julius Caesar's favorite.
Chapter 3 of Roman Wine Odyssey · Italy
The stops
- Tour · Price: moderate Taormina Greek Theatre & Etna Spectacular Greek theatre with Mount Etna as backdrop — possibly the world's most dramatic setting. Wine bars below serve volcanic Etna wines. The view hasn't changed in 2,300 years.
- Tasting · Price: moderate Mount Etna Wineries Ancient vines at 1,000m elevation on volcanic soil. Some vines are pre-phylloxera (150+ years old). The elevation and volcanic minerals create wines unlike anywhere else.
- Wine bar · Price: moderate Catania Fish Market & Wine Roman Catina was a major port. The fish market (La Pescheria) is sensory overload. Wine bars nearby serve Etna wines with fresh seafood — the combination is perfect.
- Adventure · Price: moderate Syracuse Archaeological Park Syracuse was the most powerful Greek city in the west, rivaling Athens. The archaeological park preserves the Greek Theater (seating 15,000), the Roman Amphitheater, and the famous "Ear of Dionysius" cave. The tyrant Dionysius I ruled here with wine-fueled banquets that became legendary. UNESCO World Heritage site.
- Adventure · Price: moderate Noto & Baroque Southeast UNESCO baroque town rebuilt after 1693 earthquake. The Val di Noto produces excellent Nero d'Avola and sweet Moscato. The honey-colored stone glows at sunset.
- Tour · Price: moderate Agrigento - Valley of Temples The most impressive Greek ruins outside Greece. The Temple of Concordia is perfectly preserved. Wine at sunset overlooking the temples is transcendent.
- Tour · Price: moderate Marsala - Fortified Wine Capital Named, most likely, from the Arabic for 'Ali's harbour' (some say 'Marsa Allah', port of God), this Roman port became famous for fortified wine. The historic cellars date from 1796 but the wine tradition goes back millennia.
- Adventure · Price: low Selinunte - Temple Wine Picnic Massive Greek temple ruins on the coast — the largest archaeological park in Europe. Pack a picnic with Sicilian wine and dine among fallen columns with the sea as your backdrop.
- Tasting · Price: moderate Menfi & Southwest Coast Ancient wine coast where Romans loaded ships with Sicilian wine. Modern producers like Planeta and Settesoli have revived quality. Excellent beaches and value wines.
- Adventure · Price: high Pantelleria - Island of Passito Volcanic island closer to Africa than Sicily. The dammuso houses and UNESCO vineyard landscape are unique. Passito di Pantelleria is made from sun-dried Zibibbo grapes.
The story
Mount Etna's volcanic wines have been made for 3,000 years. This adventure explores the island where Western wine culture began.
Plan the trip
Insider tip Time your visit to Etna for eruption activity if safe—watching lava flow while sipping Nerello Mascalese is otherworldly.
Getting there and around
- Car required
- Yes
- Parking
- Free at wineries; paid in major cities
- Nearest airport
- Catania (CTA) for east, Palermo (PMO) for west
- Drinking and driving
- Hire driver for Etna slopes—roads are challenging
- Other airports
-
- Trapani (TPS) for Marsala focus
- Without a car
- Coastal trains exist but very slow; car essential
Where to stay
- Base yourself in
- Taormina or Catania, then Noto, then Marsala
- Why there
- Sicily requires moving bases—too large for single location
- Booking tip
- Book Taormina 2+ months ahead in summer
- Nightly range
- €80-350/night
Recommended stays
- Budget
- Catania B&Bs, Noto agriturismi
- Luxury
- Taormina: Grand Hotel Timeo; Ragusa: Locanda Don Serafino
- Mid-range
- Taormina: Hotel Villa Belvedere; Noto: Masseria degli Ulivi
- Vineyard stays
- Several Etna wineries offer accommodation
What it costs
- Includes
- Accommodation, tastings, meals, transport
- Meals
- €40-80/day with wine (Sicily is affordable)
- Per person
- €700-1,500
- Ways to spend less
-
- Sicily is great value compared to mainland
- Street food (arancini, granita) makes cheap breakfasts
- Many wineries are free or low-cost to visit
- Tasting fees
- €15-40 per winery
Booking and timing
- Lead time
- 1-2 weeks for most wineries
- Closed days
- Some closed Sunday; Marsala varies
- Peak season
- August is extremely hot and crowded
- Best time of day
- Early morning for ruins (heat), afternoon for tastings
- Group size
- Etna tours often combine hiking with tasting
Where to eat
- Lunch
-
- Taormina: Granduca for views
- Catania: Fish market stalls (arancini, seafood)
- Noto: Caffè Sicilia for legendary granita
- Dinner
-
- Etna: Cave Ox (inside volcanic cave)
- Syracuse: Don Camillo
- Marsala: Osteria Il Gallo e l'Innamorata
- Winery restaurants
-
- Planeta estates offer excellent dining
- Many Etna wineries have casual lunch options
- Donnafugata has restaurant at Marsala estate
If your time is short
- Do not miss
- If you only have one day
- If it rains
- Syracuse archaeological museum; Marsala cellars perfect for rain
- Skip if time is short
Mistakes to avoid
-
- Don't underestimate Sicily's size—it's almost as big as Belgium
- Don't skip Etna if you love wine—it's Italy's most exciting region
- Don't drink only Nero d'Avola—the whites and Etna reds are stunning
- Don't visit ruins at midday in summer—heat is brutal
- Don't rush the Valley of Temples—it deserves sunset and sunrise
Worth stopping for
-
- Taormina theatre with Etna smoking in background
- Valley of Temples at golden hour
- Etna vineyard with lava stone walls
- Noto cathedral in warm afternoon light
- Marsala salt flats sunset with windmills