Mosella Poet's Trail
The poet Ausonius wrote 'Mosella' (c. 371 AD), describing vine-covered slopes that look identical today.
Chapter 8 of Roman Wine Odyssey · Germany
The stops
- Tour · Price: low Trier: Porta Nigra Rome's largest city north of the Alps. The Porta Nigra ("Black Gate") is the largest Roman gate in the world. Trier has more Roman monuments than any city outside Italy: amphitheatre, imperial baths, basilica. This was the capital of the Western Roman Empire under Constantine.
- Wine bar · Price: moderate Trier Wine Bars Germany's oldest city has been making wine for 2,000 years. The Weinstube culture continues Roman traditions. Local producers pour Rieslings from the steep Mosel slopes — wines that Romans would recognize in style, even if not in grape.
- Tour · Price: low Roman Wine Press (Piesport) The largest Roman wine press ever found north of the Alps. This 4th-century treading floor processed grapes from the same steep slopes that produce Piesporter Goldtröpfchen today. A direct, unbroken connection between Roman and modern winemaking.
- Tasting · Price: moderate Piesporter Goldtröpfchen "Golden Droplets" — one of Germany's most famous vineyard sites. The amphitheatre-shaped south-facing slope was first planted by Romans. The microclimate is so perfect that grapes ripen weeks earlier than surrounding areas. World-class Riesling from 2,000-year-old terroir.
- Adventure · Price: high Bernkastel-Kues Twin towns on the Mosel with medieval-Roman layers. The famous "Doctor" vineyard above the town is one of Germany's most expensive per hectare. Cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses, and wine cellars carved into Roman-era caves.
- Tasting · Price: moderate Steep Slate Vineyards The steepest vineyards in the world — up to 65-degree inclines. Roman soldiers terraced these impossible slopes 2,000 years ago. The blue Devonian slate stores heat during the day and releases it at night, ripening grapes at this northern latitude.
- Tasting · Price: moderate Zeltingen & Wehlen Home to the famous Sonnenuhr ("sundial") vineyards. The sundials were placed on these slopes centuries ago because the sun hits them so perfectly. Romans recognized this same microclimate. Two villages, one obsession: perfect Riesling.
- Tour · Price: low Neumagen-Dhron Wine Ship Germany's oldest wine village, founded by Romans in the 3rd century. The famous Wine Ship sculpture — a Roman boat loaded with wine barrels — was found here and is now in Trier's museum. A replica stands in the village, immortalizing Roman wine transport.
The story
This is Germany's oldest wine region, planted by Roman legions stationed at Trier — capital of the Western Roman Empire. The steep slate vineyards, some at 65-degree angles, were first terraced by Roman soldiers. Two thousand years later, the same slopes produce some of the world's finest Rieslings.
Plan the trip
Insider tip Stay in Trier to see the Roman monuments properly. The amphitheatre at sunset with a bottle of local Riesling is magical.
Getting there and around
- Car required
- Yes
- Parking
- Free at most wineries. Paid in Trier and Bernkastel centers.
- Nearest airport
- Frankfurt-Hahn (HHN) or Luxembourg (LUX) — both 1 hour
- Drinking and driving
- Many wineries offer next-day pickup. Small group tours available.
- Other airports
-
- Frankfurt (FRA) - 2.5 hours
- Cologne (CGN) - 2 hours
- Without a car
- Train to Trier, then local buses (limited)
Where to stay
- Base yourself in
- Trier + Bernkastel-Kues
- Why there
- Trier for Roman sites, Bernkastel for middle Mosel access
- Booking tip
- Book early for Riesling Week (late June) and harvest season (September-October).
- Nightly range
- €80-300/night
Recommended stays
- Budget
- Hotel Deutscher Hof (Trier) — central, simple
- Luxury
- Weinromantikhotel Richtershof (Mülheim) — wine estate hotel
- Mid-range
- Hotel Römischer Kaiser (Trier) — historic building
- Vineyard stays
- Weingut Dr. Loosen (Bernkastel) — legendary producer guesthouse
What it costs
- Includes
- 4 nights accommodation, tastings, meals, Roman sites
- Meals
- €30-80/day
- Per person
- €600-1,000
- Ways to spend less
-
- Many wineries offer free tastings with purchase
- Straußwirtschaften (seasonal wine taverns) are affordable
- Trier city pass includes all Roman sites at discount
- Tasting fees
- €5-25 per winery
Booking and timing
- Lead time
- 2-4 weeks for top wineries
- Closed days
- Some wineries closed Sunday
- Peak season
- Very busy during harvest (September-October)
- Best time of day
- Morning for tours, afternoon for leisurely tasting
- Group size
- Most wineries prefer groups under 10
Where to eat
- Lunch
-
- Wein- und Tafelhaus (Trier)
- Alte Zunftscheune (Bernkastel)
- Dinner
-
- Weinstube Kesselstatt (Trier)
- Doctor Weinstuben (Bernkastel)
- Winery restaurants
-
- Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt
- Weingut Markus Molitor
If your time is short
- Do not miss
- If you only have one day
- Trier Porta Nigra + amphitheatre + wine bars
- If it rains
- Trier Landesmuseum (Roman artifacts) + underground wine cellars
- Skip if time is short
Mistakes to avoid
-
- Don't skip Trier's Roman sites — they're the best north of the Alps
- Don't underestimate the steep vineyard walks — bring good shoes
- Don't try to drive after tastings — the roads are winding
- Don't miss the wine ship monument at Neumagen-Dhron
- Don't expect red wines — Mosel is 90% Riesling
Worth stopping for
-
- Porta Nigra at golden hour
- Steep vineyards reflected in the river
- Bernkastel half-timbered houses with vines above
- Sundial (Sonnenuhr) vineyard markers
- Morning mist on the Mosel