Royal Champagne Road: Chapter VII - The Ritz Era
On August 25, 1944, Ernest Hemingway showed up at the Ritz with a machine...
On August 25, 1944, Ernest Hemingway showed up at the Ritz with a machine gun demanding to "liberate" the bar. He ordered 51 dry martinis. Coco Chanel lived here 34 years until her death in 1971. Princess Diana had her last meal here. Walk the Jazz Age trail where Fitzgerald discovered Paris, drink at the world's most storied bar, and understand how champagne became synonymous with luxury, celebrity, and the good life.
A Wine Memories curated trail · winememories.fi
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Curated by Wine Memories
- 1🍷
Bar Hemingway: Where Writers Drank Stars
On August 25, 1944, Ernest Hemingway showed up with a machine gun demanding to "liberate" the Ritz. He ordered 51 dry martinis. Today the bar named for him serves champagne where Fitzgerald discovered Paris.
tasting $$$$ - 2🍷
Coco Chanel Suite: 34 Years of Champagne
"The Ritz is my home," Coco Chanel said. She moved in in 1937 and died there in 1971, age 87. The suite still features her furniture, Coromandel screens, and champagne service.
cultural $$$$ - 3🍷
Place Vendome: Napoleon's Column at Dusk
The octagonal square where luxury was born. Napoleon's column made from 1,200 cannons. The Chanel N°5 cap inspiration. When the lights come on at dusk, this is the most photographed square in Paris.
city free - 4🍷
Jazz Age Paris: The Fitzgerald Trail
"Men and girls came and went like moths among the whisperings and the champagne and the stars." Fitzgerald captured the Jazz Age in Paris. Walk where he and Zelda lived it.
city $ - 5🍷
Champagne at the Ritz Bar
The front bar of the Ritz, more accessible than Bar Hemingway. Princess Diana had her last champagne here on August 31, 1997. Churchill, Noël Coward, and generations of celebrities made this their Paris living room.
tasting $$$$
Plan the trip
Insider tip. Bar Hemingway requires reservations and smart casual. Enter at 38 Rue Cambon (back entrance), not Place Vendome. Ask for grower champagne - the bartenders know their stuff.
Getting there and around
- Car required
- No
- Parking
- Skip the car - impossible in central Paris.
- Nearest airport
- Paris CDG or Orly
- Drinking and driving
- Ritz prices are €25-30/glass. Montparnasse is more affordable (€8-15).
- Without a car
- All Metro. Montparnasse walkable between stops.
Where to stay
- Base yourself in
- Paris
- Why there
- All experiences in central Paris.
- Booking tip
- If budget allows one night at the Ritz, this is the chapter for it.
- Nightly range
- €100-600/night
Recommended stays
- Budget
- Generator Paris (€35-50) or Hotel Crayon (€120)
- Luxury
- Ritz Paris (€800+) - the full experience
- Mid-range
- Hotel du Petit Moulin (€180) - Marais location
What it costs
- Includes
- 2 nights Paris, champagne tastings, meals
- Meals
- €20-40 lunch, €40-80 dinner
- Per person
- €200-500
- Ways to spend less
-
- Place Vendome walk is FREE
- Le Select and La Rotonde are more affordable than La Closerie
- Order champagne by glass, not bottle, to try more
- Tasting fees
- Bar Hemingway €25-30/glass, Montparnasse €8-15/glass, Ritz tea €75+
Booking and timing
- Lead time
- 1-2 weeks for Bar Hemingway, Salon Proust
- Closed days
- Bar Hemingway closed Sun-Mon. Most Montparnasse spots open daily.
- Peak season
- Fashion week (Feb, Sep) books out the Ritz.
- Best time of day
- Bar Hemingway: evening. Place Vendome: dusk. Montparnasse: afternoon.
Where to eat
- Lunch
-
- Le Select (Montparnasse) - Lost Generation HQ, €15-25
- Café de Flore (Saint-Germain) - literary classic, €20-30
- Dinner
-
- Le Dome (Montparnasse) - oysters and champagne, €50-80
- L'Espadon at the Ritz - where Diana dined, €150+
- Frenchie Wine Bar - natural wines, €40-60
If your time is short
- Do not miss
- If you only have one day
- exp-royal-ch-011-bar-hemingway - The liberation story is the heart of this chapter.
- If it rains
- All indoor except Place Vendome (still beautiful in rain).
- Skip if time is short
Mistakes to avoid
-
- Don't show up at Bar Hemingway without a reservation on weekends
- Don't enter via Place Vendome - use 38 Rue Cambon for Bar Hemingway
- Don't dress casually - smart casual enforced at the Ritz
- Don't miss the Fitzgerald connection - The Great Gatsby was written in Paris
Worth stopping for
-
- Bar Hemingway: ask permission before photographing the memorabilia
- Place Vendome: blue hour for the Ritz facade glow
- Montparnasse: the brass plaque at La Closerie marks Hemingway's seat